Damm I should have done a leak down test.
Well My buddy toredown the engine, and visualy the heads look alright. My buddy pointed out a valve in cylinder #7 looking burnt. And the small valve on cylinder #3 looks worn down. He said to take them to a machine shop to get inspected. I'll try to get some pics so that you guys can give me your opinion's. As for the block it got dark outside so he couldn't really see to well, but I seen the cylinder walls have some x desinged scracht's which he said was normal. But that he would check them tommarow. None of the pistons look cracked. He put cylinder #5 up and noticed that it had slight play. The head gaskets didn't look blown out.
So we went on to the theroy of maybe the block needs a rebuild??? And started talking about how much a rebuild would cost at machine shop. I'm not to sure about this but what do you think about a rebuild???? Can forged pistons be put in without stroking the engine??? Another thing we noticed is that block looks like a used drop-in because it has chalk writing on the intake and block????
I don't know what is going on here, but im hearing about kenne bell superchargers and there computer's not being the best, im starting to think it has something to do with that?

 

Im going to try to get some pics with my phone.

 

you most likly either have a crack under the valves or inbetween the 2 valves in that low cyl. or the valves just arnt sealing. piston rocking and the x pattern is the cyl hone which is normal. onto the plug question from earlier. 97-98 plugs are the same heat range. rc12yc- rc12lc4. 12 is the heat range the newer lc4 plug has an extended tip .050 longer than the older ones. i have these in my 94 because i put a new engine in my truck last week and these older trucks dont come in anymore so i stuff these plugs in and they are fine, the writing on the block and intake, is it chaulk or paint. chrysler marked everything with white or yellow paint at the factory.

 

It looks like chaulk but could be paint. The intake say's dodge pu in yellow, and the block looks like 37 or 67 in white.
Do you think I should have the heads looked at first or just do A rebuild?

 

Another thing I always forgot to mention is that when I would rev the engine in park or neutral after reving the rpm would come down real slow. Dont know if that means anything. Maybe the idle control or TPS, not sure???[/align]

 

So my buddy pulled out the block.
He took me to a machine shop to get a estimate, the shop owner took my info and asked me if I wanted a cam I thought he meant a new cam, (after we left the shop my buddy told me hea meant a performance cam) and I said yes, he wrote down 1 cam double roller timing chain and some other stuff. It's going to be a longblock rebuild, he's going to call me tommarow to give me a quote. Should I have said no, if a differnet cam is put in won't I need a tune, I have the K/B optimizer which I think won't let me change anything?
Should I have forged piston's put in? Will there be a big price difference in forged pistons vs stock, and what will the performance difference be? Is .30 over what I will need and dished is for boost right??? Is there an advantage in puttingforged piston's.
Is there a mod that can be done to the keg intake manifold for better flow?
What kind of gaskets should I use? I have seen the mopar and fel-pro gasket kit's? Will I need different head gaskets because of the boost? If so what kind should I use?
Are pre98 ram fuel injectors different lbs? The one's that we pulled off the manifold were real hard to pull out? Im not sure if the engine has been swaped and maybe have different lb ratings and causing the kb optimizer to act different?? They have a mopar part #. Just a thought.

A shop that I called said he charges $1300 for a longblock rebuild.
To be honest I don't really want to do a rebuild because I don't see any performance gains from it. But maybe im worng. I guess im kind of scared of doing a rebuild and the problem still not being fixed, Since I thought the problem was going to be visible in the heads, like crack's or broken springs. And mainly because the truck has never ran good form the day I bought it (stupid of me).But some valves look burnt. I think my porblem is that I read to much on these forums LOL.
Im going to load everything in my dads truck tommarow and get a quote at a shop out of town. I was caught off gurad with the machine shop I went to, What should I ask him to do different as far as cam, piston's, and gasket's. Or if I go to a differnet shop what should I tell them I want done to it. And should I metion I am using a little bit of boost.
Oh and as for what I plan on using the truck for since that's important too. I'm going to use this as my street cruiser, I have 98 n20 trans am as my track car, but occasionly I would like to take it down the track. So street/strip car. I do like hitting it on the street and missing with my buddie's lighting's, but I don't expect to be as fast as them untill I get a 408 stroker j/k LOL.

I will try to get pics of everything on here by 11 am tommarow or should I say today.
Sorry about asking one too many question's.
Thanks to everyone for there time and help.

 

sounds like your motor is running lean, you probably took out a valve seat. I had a similar problem with the #8 cylinder related to a clogged cat (2000 yr and has 3 cats, 1 off each exhaust manifold). yanked the head, got a new seat put on for $45 bux and slapped it back together. ran fine, then about a year later I upgraded to the RT heads. there is a set of HD heads that will out flow the r/t's when using 2.02 valves. 1st i'd yank the heads and look into getting them fixed. if there is a crack between the valves then your heads are junk (probably are by now with the heat). then i'd makes sure your flowing exhaust well enough so heat doesnt build up next to the heads. lastly, check your mixture and ensure your not running lean (which is my bet). your passenger complaints of exhaust fumes lead me to think you may have a cracked exhaust manifold or header... having the exhaust back by the tire should not affect the cab.

 

Forged pistons are more money than stock pistons. More performance out with forged pistons?? no more power, just better...as far as all the valves having problems....sounds like the motor was running way lean and there is probably a problem with the Optimizer. The motor should be gettin extra fuel under boost. I have a Powerdynein mine and it came with aux. fuel pump that kicks on under boost. I think you should go with the rebuild(if money is a prob. for the 408 motor) you can punch the block out and do what you want to it. Also if you get forged pistons you dont need a stroker crank. They can be put on stock rods. Try telling the rebuilder what you want and need the motor for.

 

[blockquote]
johnalm is right about the hone marks I would look at the top of the cyl wall and see if it hac a ridge at the top that is caused by the rings wearing the cyl and not being able to reach all the way to the top if it isnt to big the cyl may be finr but still needs to be checked to see if it is still perfictly round than you may just need pistons and rings. The forged will hold up better under boost and heat and a dished top will lower your static compresion ratioand will allow you to run more boost. with the manafold,it hasvery long runners which is great for low end and mid range if you want to move the power band higher in to the rpm range than you can remove the cover off of the bottom of the manafold and cut down the runners with a cutt off wheel and round the edges andCLEAN it real good this is kind of a trial and error mod or you can go with the M! manafold which is a purely single planeand is in the mid range as far as height. I would also look at getting a bigger injector to help with the fuel issue and a better fuel pump ( in tank or in line ) and adding a external fuel filter beeing that dodge puts them in the tank with their returnless fuel system the bigger injector willhelp but you need to see what the pulse width is when firing if it is to long with the bigger injector youll be running rich and with too small an injector it will be maxing out you duty cycle.With your head they prob are junk by know but have them magnafluxed it cost about $20 to $30but it will show where every crack is on the head and their wont be any guessing about whats going on there.[/blockquote]

 

Will upgrading the fuel injectors effect the optmizer in the way its meant to run.

What are the lbs rating on the stockers andif Ido upgradewhat should I upgrade with?

What about gaskets anything specail needed because of the boost?
And will a cam work with that optimizer?