http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/...build002ub6.jpg
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/...build001zh5.jpg
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/...build002yb2.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/...build003xu5.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/...build004rz5.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/...build005bf0.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/...build006dl4.jpg
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/...build007es9.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/...build010hz9.jpg
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/...build012fc6.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/...build013sx1.jpg
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/...build014ky0.jpg
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/...build016dd0.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/...build017vf6.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/...build018or3.jpg
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/...build019rz9.jpg
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/...build020fb2.jpg
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/...build024ks3.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/...build040he7.jpg
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/...build032cw8.jpg
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/...build033wd8.jpg[/align]

 

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/...build042yy1.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/...build043dc1.jpg
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/...build044ny6.jpg

 

TTT

 

Here are my new question's to the stock longblock rebuild???

What kind of gasket's should I use with the rebuild? It will be a pain to have to change the head gaskets every couple months.LOL I have the big pulley installed which I think is 6lbs and MIGHT change it to the smaller one which I think is 8lbs.

Im also thinking about doing forged piston's, and I have some question's since im the brightest when it comes down to compression and the more delicate stuff.
Are there any advantages to having it bored .30 over, if so what are they? As for the compression, will it have to be changed? Like have dished piston's insted of flat or something else? I only plan on keeping the boost @ 6lbs maybe changing out the pulley for the 8lbs if possible. I don't know if the 6lbs or maybe 8lbs will get the compression to where it needs to be with dished piston's, and the stock heads? Or if dished is only for bigger power adders? Or will I be okay with the flat's?

 

You wont see a big improvement if any at all from the .30 over bore. The issue about programming the optimizer is probably better directed to Kenne Bell. They will tell you that programming a Chrysler is very involved mainly because chryslers have use a speed density fuel system for a long time which uses the vacuum presser from the MAP sensor and your throttle position from the TPS ( duh ) and the engines RPM to calculate the fuel and spark where as a mass air flow system like on your T/A measures how much air is comming in to the motor. I'm sure that if you tell them what you are wanting to do and what parts you are thinking about adding they can give you suggestions and let you know if they can reprogram you Optimizer. Do you know what S/C model you have on the truck, what displacement is it (e.g. 1.7, 2.2, 2.4? ) Your plugs I would go with one heat range colder and be sure to run premium gas. Also note that if you want to start running more boost that you will want to get a high flow cat.

 

Not sure about the KB size, Its says model TS-series.

 

I called a shop and told him what I needed. Long block rebuild with forged aluminum pistons and .30 over bore, I told him I was using a supercharger. He called to get a price on the pistons, and called me back. I think they get the block from somebody else or something because he said he mentioned to the guy he called that I wanted a .30 over bore and aluminum piston's and that I was using a supercharger, and that the guy replied ok I know what he want's. And then quoted me at $950 with what I requested and that if the heads are craked there was a $250 ea. core charge bringing the price to $1450 w/6k mile warranty but doesn't cover overheating.
He told me that he didn't know what I wanted the .30+ bore and aluminum pistons, but that when boring .30+, more heat is created and in the summer time it will tend to get hotter. He asked what I planed to do with it race it etc. I said occaisonaly race it.LOL
Is this true about the block heating with .30 over bore? Or is this nothing to worry about? And as for the piston whould I ask what brand, flat, dished, and what compression should be at? Any other questions I shoul ask him?

 

The heat transfer is true, especialy more so if the cylinder wall isn't very thick I dont know what the cyl wall thickness is from the factory. Why a new block if the the cylinder head deck or the crank jounals are warped then I can see the point but if not then get your crank turned and put oversized bearing in it and let it eat but if your still seeing the x marks from the orignal milling of the cylinder then your block probably isnt that bad. Have you got it hot?

 

Hello

In regards to my rebuild,

I was going to have a .30 over Probe forged piston with a custom grid Crower cam rebuild by a local shop. I was surprised that I found a shop in my area that knew about these trucks and they were going to call Crower to give the specs and have a cam made. They started to expalin how they need to match the head flow and piston to get the compression needed for the blower. So my brother (he was going to help me out with the rebuild cost) said to get it done with these guys, and they seemed to know what they are doing. BUT since I talked to the shop that was going to SUPPOSEBLY going to the a rebuild with the forged pistons for $950.00, I said lets talk to this $950 guy (BAD IDEA), since he said $950, I thought shoot more money for other mods.
I picked up my mechanic buddy since he lives in that area. We got there and the guy tried lecturing about how a .30 over bore would get hot and that .30 is only done to top fuel race cars, my buddy said B.S. I don't know what they call these shops, but he doesn't build there, he calls to a place in L.A. tells them what he needs and they deliver them core exchange. And calls LA and tells them I have a blower and need something built for it, they call him back and tell him I need a different cam and pistons. And he told my brother that the reason they need that is so that it can go faster (racing purpose), and my borther says that he aint going to let me get that, he told me to take off the supercharger and run a stock engine. We agreed to a stock block with the KB, and that he would pay for it. I told my buddy, I would get some different head gaskets and I gasket kit, high volume oil pump and a double roller timing chain. He said YUP.
So I ended up going with a stock longblock rebuild, not a bad deal. At least it will better than before. The guy calls me the next day and says my heads are craked, core charge $250 alright no problem. He calls me today that the block is there, I go it up and hw shows me the old heads, the cracks run form valve to valve, cant see them unless the valves are off. I came home with the block and the block reads 05088, birth date I belive. And its cut at 10, and he starts talking about it being a virgin. So I don't know what the hell to do, the guy form the shop is an AS&HOl$. And I know he's going to come up with some stupid story, (he had even told me that all blocks form 91up were the same.) So I don't know if it being a 88 block I think LA series, will be different than the magnum I should have, or are the blocks the same and the heads is the only difference? Or are all block the same? Or Im I just thinkg too much, and need to get off the interent lol?

I also found out that the injectors I have are for pre96 5.9 ( checked online and at the delaership), so im not sure if that had anything to do with the raw fuel smell. I also ran the computer # and it came back as a mopar perfromance ecu for a 5.2 5-speed, not sure what the deal is there, but im going to check at the dealership tommarow.

Oh and sorry about the long story and for asking all the other question's about pistons and ended up going with stock longblock only to ask more question's. LOL. Im just starting to get fustrated with this truck rebuild. And I don't want to say the he!! with it and sell it.


Thanks

 

The engine is in and it starts, I just dont want to dirve it because Im waitng for my oem ECU, since I have had the mopar perfromance ECU which may have been a reason for my previous truck failure in conjucntion with the Kenne Bell optimizer.
But I have started it a few times, and I got code P1391. I erased it and then later it came back again p1391(manufacturer control ignition system or misfire) with p0138 (o2 sensor cirucuit high volts /Bank 1 sensor 2/) I have had this one (p0138) before the rebuild though. If I turn it on and wait ofr the truck to warm up and lightly rev to 1500-1800 rpm it will backfire like a popcorn sound.
I looked up p1391 online and its says intermint loss Crankshaft postion senor or camshaft postion senor.
Any ideas, I was thinking maybe the camshaft sensor.Since it was the only thing that my mechanic thought twice about, when istalling the distributor. If the timing was set right will it cause for this to happen? What sholud the timing be?
Thanks