Reject's Dakota
You did a real fine job in my opinion - real professional look. For your earlier question on fuse sizes, you'll need to use a bit of logical judgement as to the exact size or whether you want "slow blow" or breaker, but as long as you have a heavy enough wire size to handle the load, you can use the formula of P = VA where P is Power in Watts, V is DC voltage, and the A is your amperage.
For a cooling fan, people are often shocked (no pun intended) at the starting current, but keep in mind that this is only momentary - electric motors have a huge in-rush, it's like a short circuit temporarily, but this isn't anywhere near what the running condition is. To get a good handle on what you need here, you need to get some details on the single or multi-speed motor(s), like the current draw for startup and running conditions and the "in-rush" duration.
For a cooling fan, people are often shocked (no pun intended) at the starting current, but keep in mind that this is only momentary - electric motors have a huge in-rush, it's like a short circuit temporarily, but this isn't anywhere near what the running condition is. To get a good handle on what you need here, you need to get some details on the single or multi-speed motor(s), like the current draw for startup and running conditions and the "in-rush" duration.
Well just got back from the store, bought alot of the stuff im going to use for my Radiator support replacement im doing this coming week. Mostly just Paint, Bedliner, Undercoat and stuff to clean up the front when I have the fenders off.
Also plan to bedliner the entire new Rad support.

Also plan to bedliner the entire new Rad support.

Yea it will be, I have to remove atleast 1 Fender, the Guard, bumper, maybe a support behind the fender to slid the Rad support out. I figured It just pull the front apart and clean any rust up and help prevent more.
Yea, I might have to pull it off to get the support out anyways.
Started to tear it apart today, idk who the **** designed this front end, they should be shot dead. Ill thought my 2k's design was stupid, where the entire Fender was also the inner fender, and Structural support, then had everything bolted to it. Uploading pics now.
Primed and Painted the new Rad support
Removed the Grill Guard
Removed the Headlights
Removed the Bumper Cover and Support
Removed Splash Guard and Inner Fender
Removed the Drivers Side Fender
After spending awhile looking at it. Im pretty sure I have to removed the Pass Side Fender, Hood, the one sides structural support.

Guard, headlights and Cover off

Bumper off




I figured out the stupid push-clips, you need to push the middle part in then they come out

Radiator Support, Plastic part Removed you can see how bad it really was (i poked it and it fell off the rad)



Drivers side fender off (Red straps to help support rad) Altho the old support did nothing anyways


Piles of parts

New support all painted in Bedliner

Removed the Grill Guard
Removed the Headlights
Removed the Bumper Cover and Support
Removed Splash Guard and Inner Fender
Removed the Drivers Side Fender
After spending awhile looking at it. Im pretty sure I have to removed the Pass Side Fender, Hood, the one sides structural support.

Guard, headlights and Cover off

Bumper off




I figured out the stupid push-clips, you need to push the middle part in then they come out

Radiator Support, Plastic part Removed you can see how bad it really was (i poked it and it fell off the rad)



Drivers side fender off (Red straps to help support rad) Altho the old support did nothing anyways


Piles of parts

New support all painted in Bedliner

Oh yeah, Anyone else that needs to replace thiers, Go to a Fab shop and have one Custom made so it can just slide on without removing anything, other then the bumper. Im was contemplating it, still am.
Do you think it would be worth it to drill some seep holes in there somewhere to let the water drain better and then respray? That's terrible though, holy cow. It's like I'm looking and an early 80s Toyota or a behind-the-barn ornament from the 50s...
The design of it is terrible, the part up by the crossmember is open, and the L's to a right angle instead of slanted down slightly. With the factory "rake", water will puddle there. Even still, it's not enough to drain anything if it was level. And then the bottom support itself is a pan, with 'some' drainage, but where the L pieces attach, water will gather anyways.. good one Chrysler lol
The design of it is terrible, the part up by the crossmember is open, and the L's to a right angle instead of slanted down slightly. With the factory "rake", water will puddle there. Even still, it's not enough to drain anything if it was level. And then the bottom support itself is a pan, with 'some' drainage, but where the L pieces attach, water will gather anyways.. good one Chrysler lol
Last edited by FrenicX; Apr 30, 2012 at 02:55 AM.


