Reject's Dakota
Do you think it would be worth it to drill some seep holes in there somewhere to let the water drain better and then respray? That's terrible though, holy cow. It's like I'm looking and an early 80s Toyota or a behind-the-barn ornament from the 50s...
The design of it is terrible, the part up by the crossmember is open, and the L's to a right angle instead of slanted down slightly. With the factory "rake", water will puddle there. Even still, it's not enough to drain anything if it was level. And then the bottom support itself is a pan, with 'some' drainage, but where the L pieces attach, water will gather anyways.. good one Chrysler lol
The design of it is terrible, the part up by the crossmember is open, and the L's to a right angle instead of slanted down slightly. With the factory "rake", water will puddle there. Even still, it's not enough to drain anything if it was level. And then the bottom support itself is a pan, with 'some' drainage, but where the L pieces attach, water will gather anyways.. good one Chrysler lol
If I have one made it will be all flat steel, not tubular, or anywhere for water to pool. Since the bottom would just be a flat solid piece with holes drilled thru it for the clips, and rad to sit.
Here my idea, This is so it will Slide into place.
Left Side:
Gray = Upper Part
Dark Gray = Down Supports and Rad Plate
Red = Maybe part of the down supports to help.
Right Side:
Gray = Upper Part
Dark Gray/Red = Down supports
Dark Gray = Rad Plate
Left Side:
Gray = Upper Part
Dark Gray = Down Supports and Rad Plate
Red = Maybe part of the down supports to help.
Right Side:
Gray = Upper Part
Dark Gray/Red = Down supports
Dark Gray = Rad Plate
I know EVguy was able to spread his clip enough to get that support out, but either way, a fix-it part will be better anyways.
Yea just tell them you need that piece recreated with thicker steel and nowhere for water to gather, and C-beam the top instead of fully boxed. Maybe weld on some "stand-offs" so that the plastic shroud isn't butt-up against the radiator support so water doesn't stay sandwiched in there.
Yea just tell them you need that piece recreated with thicker steel and nowhere for water to gather, and C-beam the top instead of fully boxed. Maybe weld on some "stand-offs" so that the plastic shroud isn't butt-up against the radiator support so water doesn't stay sandwiched in there.
Last edited by FrenicX; Apr 30, 2012 at 02:54 PM.
I know EVguy was able to spread his clip enough to get that support out, but either way, a fix-it part will be better anyways.
Yea just tell them you need that piece recreated with thicker steel and nowhere for water to gather, and C-beam the top instead of fully boxed. Maybe weld on some "stand-offs" so that the plastic shroud isn't butt-up against the radiator support so water doesn't stay sandwiched in there.
Yea just tell them you need that piece recreated with thicker steel and nowhere for water to gather, and C-beam the top instead of fully boxed. Maybe weld on some "stand-offs" so that the plastic shroud isn't butt-up against the radiator support so water doesn't stay sandwiched in there.
My idea is all flat steel, so water cant pool, it may sit on there like anywhere, but cant pool. I plan to bedliner it anyways for added help.
I plan to bring them the new one I have, and the ideas of what I want so they can get the holes and such in the correct spots, and drill the big holes for the rads brackets to sit in. Im hoping, the shop im going to try can get it done either tomorrow, or a day or 2. Well they are doing it im going to weather proof and cleanup so surface rust on the front and cut the old support out.
Also anyone removing the Pass. Side fender, I figured out how to remove the antenna (since I wreck it on the 2k I had LOL) Its not hard, Remove antenna Mast, then you need to turn the silver ring that has 3 indents in it at the base, that makes the plastic part on the fender come off and the rest can fall inside the fender.
Last edited by Reject; Apr 30, 2012 at 06:50 PM.
Went up to the Machine shop today, they said they can have it done by Thursday, Friday at the latest, He said going to be around $236ish Most being Labor. I also went to Dodge and ordered a new Parking Brake Handle, That should be here Weds Afternoon. Then they told me to go to Napa to buy new Pushin clips, lol.
Got the old Support cut out, then used the grinder to clean up alot of the surface rust where it was, and a few other spots then painted them with Rust Inhibiting paint. plan to also Undercoat it all, and the inside of the Fenders.
Pass. Fender Removed

Cutting Old Support out (I cut one of the straps when I was grinding the rust off)



Also got some new Lugs since mine are all bulged, and one the cap had to be removed off.
Got the old Support cut out, then used the grinder to clean up alot of the surface rust where it was, and a few other spots then painted them with Rust Inhibiting paint. plan to also Undercoat it all, and the inside of the Fenders.
Pass. Fender Removed

Cutting Old Support out (I cut one of the straps when I was grinding the rust off)



Also got some new Lugs since mine are all bulged, and one the cap had to be removed off.
yea... not a fan of how long it takes undercoating to cure. I undercoated the back of my rollpan after I primed thinking I would be able to sand/base/clearcoat it sometime this week.. it's still a little tacky but I think I will paint it today.
Thanks, I tore the front of my parents 2000 Dakota apart, so its not to hard, plus this is easier, since the fender doesnt support everything.
This is what it looked like with no fender, or bumper lol
I would have loved my 05 Daktoa if those supports where bolted on not welded.

Sad enough, Here was also its Lower Rad Support
The Undercoat was SLIGHTLY tacky still, but not enough to come off on my fingers.
I got both fenders and headlights put back on, and the Antenna put on.
Also put some under coat on the fenders behind the Splash guards and more on the front parts.



Bolt behind the Splash Guard

Bolt Inside the fender, Behind the Foam (Need to remove inner fender)

Bolt Inside Fender / By Hood Hinge

Then there is 2, 10mm Behind the Headlight, 2, 10mm on top and 3, 13mm ones.
All except the 3, 13mm are all 10mm bolts.
I got both fenders and headlights put back on, and the Antenna put on.
Also put some under coat on the fenders behind the Splash guards and more on the front parts.



Bolt behind the Splash Guard

Bolt Inside the fender, Behind the Foam (Need to remove inner fender)

Bolt Inside Fender / By Hood Hinge

Then there is 2, 10mm Behind the Headlight, 2, 10mm on top and 3, 13mm ones.
All except the 3, 13mm are all 10mm bolts.
Last edited by Reject; May 3, 2012 at 02:30 PM.





