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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 06:45 AM
  #11  
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http://www-5.dodge.com/wccsapp/unive...ull&category=R

or

http://tinyurl.com/57juak
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 08:53 AM
  #12  
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I believe if you have the 4.7L with 5sp auto and tow option, it will have the 3:92 gears in it.(.25 12 bolt rear, anti spin.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 09:03 AM
  #13  
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Rick4Dak just made a great info post in the other thread, which he is correct about https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-dakota/180809-need-some-numbers-about-my-truck.html
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 09:21 AM
  #14  
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Crawled under the truck last night and looked at the front axle, the sticker tag has a big old 3.55 on it. I did order a build sheet just to verify. Thanks for the link Hank.

Both front and rear differential covers are 12 bolt, so 9.25 gears. Looks like 4.10's will be the ones I get. I guess the next question is, will the front and rear gear sets be the same part number?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 10:14 AM
  #15  
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if they are both the same differential yes, but one may be HP and the maybe be LP.

So you may need reverse cut gears. I just setup two ring/pinions on dana 60's.

If you are doing it yourself here is a few pointers:
- For pinion depth race (Unless it is different in your diff) grind the outside of an old race and use that for setup, that way you don't have to hammer it in each time.
- Setup Bearings, these are a must unless you have a turn style pinion mesh crap lol.
Take your time, make sure everything is clean each time you assemble/disassemble.
- if you are using a crush sleeve make sure you have the proper prys and snypes to do it, they can take upto 600 ft lbs to crush.
- Other wise take care. But Setup bearings are a savior. I setup two, and I can say the second one went a lot smoother.

To remove old bearings. Cut the cage off. Than take a dremmel and cut at the top all the way through the inner race until you can tell that it's through but don't hit the carrier. Next push down all the way till the bottom of your race than take something and hammer it up I used an air hammer(a weak one). If you have a strong air hammer you can probably peel the bearing off. and same with a torch and other stuff. But this is an easy method if you don't have the tools.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 10:19 AM
  #16  
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Glad ya figured it out Mike...

Good input varsis!
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 11:23 AM
  #17  
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my complete package was , gears frt and rear, axle seals, completer bearing kit, oil, taxand labor some other stuff that i cant remember. peter hany from www.ctaxle.com did the work. complete job took 2 days. he does this on the side. gears were by precision
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 10:30 PM
  #18  
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Called dealer today with vin and turns out I have 8.0 (or a 205mm as he called it) gear in front, 9.25 rear.

Little warning to guys thinking about a swap. Make sure you check with the dealer, seems as if gear size varies quite a bit on the 05-07 daks for some reason.
Guys at Randy's Gears says some even have a reverse cut gear in front. To find that out, look at front diff where drive line enters it. If it comes in below centerline, it's a standard cut gear, if it enters above centerline it's a reverse cut. Thankfully, mines a standard cut. According to him, there are no reverse cut 8.0 gears in a 4.10.
 

Last edited by mikset; Nov 24, 2008 at 10:41 PM. Reason: added
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 07:26 AM
  #19  
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When you change your ratios, how/who adjusts the computer so that your speedo is accurate ?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 09:59 AM
  #20  
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I read on another forum that on our trucks the speedometer reads ring gear speed which does not change unless you change tire diameters.
 
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