So, I'm still getting used to characteristics of this truck since I've only had it about a month now. I'm noticing a rubbing or vibration on take off from a dead stop with moderate accelerator pressure. If I let off the brake and roll for a second then hit the accelerator it doesn't happen. It only lasts for a second, then goes away. It doesn't happen at any other speed, it's not more pronounced while turning, in-fact it happens while going straight or turning. No clicking, or clunking. It feeling like its in the front end but I cant be certain. Is this just part of our trucks and I'm just now noticing it? If not any ideas what it might be? U-joints? It driving me nuts worrying that something else might be wrong with this truck I just bought. Thanks in advance.

 

are you all wheel drive?

 

Nope, I have a 4x4 but unless its somehow stuck in 4 wheel drive without the light being on its just in 2wd. That would be my luck though somehow stuck in 4x4 without me knowing.

 

No, you would know it if it were stuck in 4x4. Kinda hard to diagnose from your description. There is a big difference, troubleshooting wise, from a rubbing sound and a vibration. Could be a brake caliper or rear shoe sticking a little. Could be a u-joint going bad. Could be completely normal. Try and isolate if it is engine related or driveline related.

 

check this out

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...er-a-stop.html

it kinda sounds like your problem, only bc you mentioned the at take-off part. hope you can fix the problem soon

 

Looks like I have an idea of what this rubbing/vibration is. Not too good I'm afraid. I finally had a chance to have someone take a test drive and tell me what they thought. The tech thinks is the clutch packs in the rear dif slipping. He was suprised I even noticed it because he said "most consumers wouldn't even have felt it." Here's my thing, yes it is doing it when I turn under acceleration, but its doing it while accelerating going straight too. It happens only in first (I have an automatic) nothing at any other speed going straight but I do notice it rolling around a turn then accelerating. Here's another thing the tech noticed, the rear pinion seal is seaping ever so slightly (no puddles in the drive) if the fluid was getting low could that cause the packs to slip? Should I just add a bottle of the LSD additive because it is a limited slip 9.25? Thoughts?

 

Have you taken any action on this? I just picked up an 06 Dakota with a 9.25 limited slip rear. I noticed that it is acting similar. Especially when accelerating harder than casual, from a stop, while turning left or right. I think I'm going to drop by the dealer today, pick up the recommended 75w140 gear oil and a bottle of the correct additive, drain it, clean it, and refill it. I have no idea of know what is in there. Perhaps the last time it was changed someone just put regular gear oil in.

 

I have added a bottle of the additive, no better for me I'm afraid. I'm hoping I can get the pinion seal replaced fairly soon, when I do I want one of those guys to take it for a ride and tell me what they think. Let me know if the full fluid change works for you. They guy that said he thinks its the clutch packs going told me he thinks it like $1000 to have it done and I just dont have that kind of money right now, so I'm trying to baby it as best as I can.

 

I did a full fluid change this morning. Used 2.2 quarts Mopar 75w-140 Synthetic Gear & Axle Lubricant, and a 4 oz bottle of Mopar Limited Slip Addative. The dealer parts guy ran my VIN and said that is what my 2006 9.25" rear should have in it.

Quite honestly if you drove it before, and drove it after, you'd swear someone put a brand new rear end in it. It now works perfectly, and is completely quiet and smooth.

I did a parking lot test prior to the change. From a dead stop with the steering at full lock left or right, a quick jab at the pedal caused the rear end to shudder/vibrate terribly. Now doing the same thing with the new (correct) fluid and additive in, the rear is completly smooth and quiet, and almost immediatly the inside wheel locks into posi and spins - just like it should.

I just picked this truck up last Tuesday, and I was nearly certain the previous owner bailed to avoid a costly repair. The fluid is a bit pricey at over $20 a quart, but needless to say, for less than $80 total cost, I'm exceptionally happy. I'd do yours when the pinion seal is replaced, and I'm betting it will resolve what you're feeling.

I took several pics and could post up a DIY if it would help anyone.

 

Very cool! Don't need the job, but a DIY would be great to have posted for future reference.