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Exhaust Leak

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  #21  
Old 05-19-2009, 05:11 PM
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This WILL NOT be covered under 8/80000. Confirmed by a call to the dealer. I'm taking to a local shop tomorrow to have it done. No time to deal with it.
 
  #22  
Old 05-20-2009, 01:49 PM
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Fixed. It had a busted rear bolt...big surprise. $250 repair, with the bolt extraction, new gasket, lots of wd-40 and patience. The guy said they used 8mm bolts oem, which are undersized for the application, and suggested re-tapping and going with bigger bolts if it happens again.
 
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:07 PM
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Im glad to here you got it worked out. But I would have Demanded that the dealer take care of it under warranty, As per Federal and or State EPA standards. And Exhaust manifold bolts or studds or anything related falls under that verbage. I'd also like to state,, That you will find Most of the Dealers and the Tech's have no clue when it comes to fixxing most problems, And will Try there best not to cover something under warranty or try to point towards an after market part that has nothing to do with the problem, All because they are afraid that corporate won't reimburse them for the fix. Just one man's opinion............
 
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Old 05-22-2009, 06:03 PM
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I respect your opinion dryice, but legally there is no room for argument. The federal mandate is clear as glass, 2year/24000 miles on manifolds, studs, and gaskets. I could walk into the dealership and raise hell. Maybe they'd act like they care to get me away from potential customers, but all I would really be is a big A-hole. By the way, I have a good relationship with an ex-service manager from a Dodge dealership that recently folded. He is now in another line of work with no bias. I asked him too, and the answer was 2/24000.
 
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Old 05-22-2009, 07:46 PM
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I stand corrected, And I keep forgetting that California's EPA law's are more strict. Here the rules are 5/60 emission related parts and long term rule of 8/80. Sorry for getting your hope's up.
 
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dryice
Sorry for getting your hope's up.
No problems, they never were.
 
  #27  
Old 09-06-2009, 05:16 PM
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Thanks guys. I have the same problem with my 04 dodge durango. It's a V8, but not the hemi (I'm too lazy to remember the right liter). Anyway, just found this site while doing a search for my problem and I believe mine is 99.9% the same as the first poster, cracked bolts at engine manifold. Just curious, how could a bad oil lift be similar to this problem? Thanks again guys. I can sleep alittle easier know that this might be under 400-500 bucks.
 
  #28  
Old 09-07-2009, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bryant222
Just curious, how could a bad oil lift be similar to this problem?
???? Can you clarify please...not sure I understand what your asking? Do you mean similar noise from hydrolic lifters??? which are not really lifters, but valve lash adjusters? Yes, the valve lash adjusters can make noises similar to an exhaust leak. One is more of a hard tick, the other is a hard piff. But both are similar to an untrained ear....and both are common in these motors.
 
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mprohr
???? Can you clarify please...not sure I understand what your asking? Do you mean similar noise from hydrolic lifters??? which are not really lifters, but valve lash adjusters? Yes, the valve lash adjusters can make noises similar to an exhaust leak. One is more of a hard tick, the other is a hard piff. But both are similar to an untrained ear....and both are common in these motors.
....yeah, I think that's what I mean. Sorry, pretty ignorant when it comes to these things. Changing brakes is about as far as I go. I just saw some where in my searches that someone mentioned a "bad lifter" could be the same problem. Does that make sence? What your explaining sounds expensive. Went out and listened to it again, it's deffinantly a exhaust issue. Thanks.
 
  #30  
Old 01-14-2010, 01:42 PM
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Do you have this for the left side??

Originally Posted by baracis
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable for battery.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Remove accessory drive belt.
4. Remove A/C compressor.
5. Remove A/C accumulator support bracket fastener.
6. Drain coolant below heater hose level.
7. Remove heater hoses at engine.
8. Remove fasteners attaching exhaust manifold heat shield.
9. Remove heat shield.
10. Remove upper exhaust manifold attaching fasteners.
11. Raise vehicle on hoist.
12. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
13. Remove fasteners attaching starter. Move starter aside.

14. Remove lower exhaust manifold attaching fasteners.
15. Remove exhaust manifold and gasket. Manifold is removed from below the engine compartment.

CLEANING
1. Clean the exhaust manifold using a suitable cleaning solvent, then allow to air dry.
2. Clean all gasket residue from the manifold mating surface.

INSPECTION
1. Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks in the mating surface and at every mounting bolt hole.
2. Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check the mating surface for warp and twist.
3. Inspect the manifold to exhaust pipe mating surface for cracks, gouges, or other damage that would prevent sealing.

INSTALLATION
1. Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below engine compartment.
2. Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners. DO NOT tighten until all fasteners are in place.
3. Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust manifold fasteners. Tighten all manifold bolts starting at center and working outward to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
4. Install exhaust manifold heat shield. Tighten fasteners to 8 Nm (72 inch lbs.) , then loosen 45 degrees.
5. Install starter and fasteners.
6. Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
7. Connect heater hoses at engine.
8. Install fastener attaching A/C accumulator.
9. Install A/C compressor and fasteners.
10. Install accessory drive belt.
12. Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
13. Install battery and connect cables.
14. Fill cooling system.
 


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