Guys - I am on my 2nd dakota, V8 4x4 this go round. Have not been on here much but need help.

Simple JVC head unit hook up with Axess harness that helps with maintaining stock electronic functions? got it ALL hooked up, red axess 12v/switchable line into my cig lighter. Yellow to Yellow. turn key - CD player lights up, shuts off. only see activity on head unit when i hit eject or display so i know it is getting some power...but i cannot keep it on or turn it off/on myself.

Is it my power source??? Should I tap into somewhere underneath the steering column? fuse box? And if so how? Any and all help is appreciated. Pete

 

y are you getting power from the cig lighter and not the wire from the stock radio harness

 

If the connections are good, it should be working. i have my ignition on coming from the cig lighter. I did run my constant hot (yellow) stright off of the battery, though.

Maybe check for a reset button/procedure on the head unit. May be a bad unit?

 

apparently the stock harness does not come with a 12v power source. so i have an axxess harness (sold to me by the guy at best buy) that plugs in to the stock with two lines in to the axxess module; one red one orange/white dimmer. tapped red into the cig lighter, orange/white dimmer to red acc out of radio. turn key, JVC lights up for few seconds that turns off. will light up if i hit eject or disp, then shut off. i think it has power. Beginning to consider that i may have blown 15A fuse in back of radio...but would the thing even light up if so?

 

thanks tidster but wait, wouldn't yellow out of radio match up with yellow from harness which is pulling power from red in cig lighter?

 

Remember 2007 have the delay power off even if the key is removed until the left door is opened. Also the Radio is on the battery saver as it will loss power after time when there is a timed draw. All this is only through the factory power feeds only. If you find power from a general source the CAN-B will see this and will not control it. Harness match must agree with the factory harness connection. Some 3rd. party radios head units have caused problems with the CAN-B that has caused insane results.

 

does it matter that mine is a 2006? Do my connections sound right? perhaps i should tap into a another power source. Calling JVC today to see what they say...

 

Ok, first of all take everything I say at face value, I am a novice when it comes to aftermarket stereo hookup/install, but I did do a lot of research on this before me and my buddy jumped into it. He has a lot more experience than me with all of this. I bought this radio harness in the very beginning.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...CCR03SRB-.html

I was told you had to have this one or one like it because it had a relay, the rectangular box you see at the bottom of the pic, that communicates with the CAN-bus somehow that won't fry your computer and cause other crazy crap to happen. It plugs into your OEM wiring harness and then you just match wires with the radio harness and presto everything works. My buddy swore and still swears that I didn't need to spend the 75 bucks on it and could have used a basic wiring harness. After all of the horror stories I heard about fried computers and air bags being deployed, etc. I was going to take a chance. After hooking it up we started having problems, one with the OEM speaker in the drivers door not working and then all of a sudden all of the OEM speakers sounding like crap. He of course blamed the wiring harness so I went and talked to a professional installer and he told me that the wiring harness could be bad but to check all connections for a good connection etc. I did and discovered it was the wiring harness or connector that plugs into the back of the aftermarket stereo that was shorted out. I told him and then raised the question of what exactly that wiring harness does that a basic/cheap one doesn't and he told me that it was because of the feature my '07 has and from what I understand all trucks with the CAN-Bus has that keeps your radio on until you open your door. He told me that you don't really need it if you know what you are doing, that you can just run your own accessory wire, with a fuse, to a source that holds power until the door is open. He suggested, as well as a few threads I found on here, to use the drivers side cigarette lighter that doesn't stay powered all the time but shots off when the door is open. Since the wiring harness I have now is huge and does take up a lot of room behind the stereo, and with the computer chip/box just has something else that could go bad anyway, I ordered a basic wiring harness and when it and my new HU get here he is going to hook it up for me and show me what is up. I don't know if this helps but that is all I have learned since I started my stereo upgrade. I think we can all agree that 75 bucks is a lot to pay for a wiring harness but in the end it is waaaaaay less than buying a new computer or replacing the air bags.

 

From when I installed my Kenwood recently, I remember red being the Ignition hot source and yellow being the constant hot source. These colors are what was coming out of the head unit. I only used the adapter harness to wire up the speakers, for everything else I ran my own wires and contacts.

My yellow/constant is not pulling power from the red. It pulls power right off of the battery and is a seperate circuit. The red goes to the cig light and is just a tiny amount of activation power. Two different circuits for me. Sorry if I misunderstood or am adding confusion.