I will be attempting to do a full front and rear shock replacement using the Rancho RS5000's and want to get a TM leveling kit also. The shocks are ordered but I have not ordered the leveling kit as I had some questions that I am a bit confused on, even after reading endless posts on the topic here.

I have a 2005 V8 2WD Quad Cab Sport.

Will the TM leveling kit listed on their site work with 2wd (a few posts have said yes I just want to reconfirm)

I'm pretty sure I need a spring compressor for the front coils, do I need anything else such as a tie rod puller etc?

Are there any replacement nuts/bolts/washers I should prepare myself to get or go ahead and get if they are inexpensive?

Will I need the 1" or 2" (cant remember how high it was) kit for the rear to get it completely level?

I was going to go ahead and start prepping the bolts with PB Blaster or some other type of bolt oil. Would there be any ill effects from using it for a few days and continuing to drive?

Thanks for any help. This has been one of the most usefull forums I have found so far, and I just started browsing it a few days ago. Just want to my ducks in a row before I really jump into tearing stuff apart.

 

The PB blast is an excellent idea a couple days in advance. You can drive just fine.

The Trail Master leveling kit is a bit more involved to do yourself, as you will need to dissemble the strut to install it.

Removing the tie-rod end from the lower control arm is a must IMO. I did two leveling kit installs, and twice i didn't bother to detach the tie rod end from the lower arm, but it's a good idea.

With the TM kit, the front lift is about 1.5", so you really don't need to do the rear. Would I? Yes, 1". If you want the truck to be perfectly level, you don't need to do the rear at all with the TM kit.

1" rear will keep the factory shocks working perfectly, but it will introduce a tiny bit of "rake" again.

Determine if your rear axle is the 8.25, or 9.25, as the u-bolts will be a different size.

The TM kit works perfectly on a 2wd. The 2wd and 4x4 dakota share the exact same front end parts.

A lot of guys who installed the TM kit themselves had a few issues with the retaining nut that holds the strut plate on the top of the strut. If yours appears to be in bad shape rust wise, you may want to pay a shop to install the front kit for you, and then you do the rear on your own.

Good Luck.

 

I thought since I was replacing the shocks I would have to dissemble the unit anyway? Or is there something I'm missing.

 

the front struts on the daks are what some refer to a sa quick strut your shock and spring all come as one part and mount rigght to the control arms i do believe if look at it the shock runs through the spring with a plate ontop of the spring that a shaft runs through with a thread at the the top for the retaining nut hence the reason you need the compressor to get the nut offf to remove the plate to install the spacer underneith the plate

 

you will need a spring compressor to remove the spring from the shock. The coils on the springs are very close together so the spring compressor my friend had did not work, had to bring it to a shop for them to use their wall mount compressor

 

i had actually rented one from canadian tire that fit lol surprisingly the only thing that stopped me from installing the level kit was the damn top nut seized real good no biggy rather install it on fresh shocks

 

AND MAKE SURE THAT COMPRESSOR IS ON THERE GOOD TIGHT AND YOU DONT WANT THAT BITCH COMING LOOSE ON YA lotta force behind that coil

 

Would it be easier to remove the shock/coil assembly and take it to a shop intact with the leveling kit and just have them install everything there then take it back and put it back on the truck myself?

 

That is what I did. I did not want to mess with those springs. Took about an hour with having to screw around getting those top nuts off...

 

Just an update, thanks for all the good advice.

I first tried to do the front struts myself, I broke the first stabilizer bar link taking it off, thought no biggy it was an easy fix as I only snapped off the top part of the bolt with the nut on it. Got the first strut assembly off fairly easily.

Moved on to the 2nd. Managed to not break the stabilizer link but when I got to the upper control arm knuckle I could not separate it. I tried for 2-3 hours beating and banging on it before giving up, putting everything back together and waiting another month to take it to a buddy's shop.

Come to find out even if I had gotten if all off and used my buddy's wall mounted spring compressor the top nuts on both assemblies were rust welded. The shop had to cut them off which I think took 2 hours for each one or something ridiculous.

Everything went back on, even the stabilizer link was fixed as there was enough bolt left to just screw a new nut on. Total cost for the shop to do everything including an alignment and rotation was $200 and it took half a day.

I don't feel bad that I couldn't finish the job myself, but I learned enough from the experience to feel confident in just paying someone with the right tools to do it.

I went ahead and ordered new stabilizer links and they should be here next week.