looking good

 

Does anyone know how much brake fluid is in our trucks braking system? I bought one of them pressure bleeder systems and I am draining out all the old and putting new in thru the whole system just wondering how much new to buy? Cya Slick

 

LOL, Yeah I picked a up a tall bottle today may need another if I do the entire system.. I just watched truck University and they used 2 quarts, for the 2010 ford truck they had on there..

I also looked on brake performance.com for there bedding procedure but could not find it on there website but I did find it some where else.. I am just wondering how close did every one follow the bedding procedure when they changed there pads? I bought the prestone synthetic brake fluid dot 3, I did not know which brand was better so I went with the prestone.. Cya Slick

Bedding brake pads has a couple of important effects. The friction material in semi-metallic pads is held together by an organic binder, usually a type of phenolic material. As the pads get hot, the binder boils and burns from the top surface of the pad. Once this burning or “Bedding” takes place, the friction material makes proper contact with the rotor.

Baer Claw® systems feature Baer’s ceramic-based SPORT TOURING “D-compound” brake pads. Although pre-burnished from the factory, SPORT-TOURING, just as with all pad types, benefit from being properly mated to the rotor surface. If both the rotor and pad are new and the rotor surfaces are un-plated, it is most desirable to run the pads through normal commuting type driving for at least 150-200-miles before using them aggressively. If the new rotor surface finish is plated or the rotor is used with a compound other than the SPORT-TOURING ceramic-based pad, increase the commuter type driving with no hard use, to a total of 250-300-miles to accomplish the blending of the pad surface to the rotor surface.

Bedding The Pads - (NEVER DRAG the brakes)

Note: Never “Bed” pads on rotors, which have not first been “Seasoned.” Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade.

Perform four-repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature.
Perform three light stops in succession. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Perform three light stops in succession. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph
to about 5 mph.
Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Additional Notes:

Metallic brake pads – Metallic pads need high temperatures to keep the pad “Bedded”. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to “Bed” the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure.
Switching from Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (not recommended) – When switching from Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the PFC pads have deposited in the rotor surface. The new pads won’t grip well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed.
Racers - Racers should “Bed” a few sets of pads at a time. In the event you need to change brake pads during a race, you MUST use a set of “Bedded” pads. Racing on “non-bedded” pads leads to a type of “fade” caused by the binding agents coming out of the pad too quickly. This is called “green fade”. These binders may create a liquid (actually a gas) layer between your pads and rotors. Liquids have a very poor coefficient of friction. This condition is the reason for reverse slotting or cross-drilling rotors, as it allows a pathway for the gasses to escape.

 

the bedding instructions that shipped with my stuff from brakeperformance just said do 10-20 stops from 45-5 without fully stopping and avoid hard stops for the first 50-100 miles. (semi-metallic pads, dimpled/slotted rotors)

i did mine on wednesday morning and the pedal feel is driving me nuts. it's always been kinda crappy, but now it's slightly *more* crappy than it was. doesn't feel like air in the system, but just sort of spongy. my brake fluid had been replaced by the dealer when they did my rear brakes, so i just bled the calipers.

 

Thanks because I got no such instructions with my rotors and sorry to hear that your braking hasent improved but got worse wow, I am sure some one may have some impute on your situation and could help.. Well I will let you all know how mine feel tomorrow.. Cya Slick

 

Here is a link to my thread just finished the brakes.. Cya Slick

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...tors-rock.html

 

Something is up, my brake feel improved noticeably with the new rotors and pads. I would try bleeding everything just to make sure since that's pretty easy to check if you have someone to help you.

 

yeah, i just need the time to do it. working graveyards suuuuuuuucks. i'll probably take care of it monday or tuesday.