I went this route....
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KFCW...12.html?tp=111
$149.00 and comes with a free box.

I mounted it behind the passenger seat. Had to remove the jack bracket, as well as the middle seatbelt (which is never used anyway) I "can" bolt the seat back in, but it won't fold properly so I opted to leave it unbolted with the bolts just in the seat itself so it sits infront of the brackets and give a bit more of an incline to the backrest. (also have the other seat this way so they match.

I did have to cut the box down about 3" on one side and reinstall the side plate. Also I threw in some polyfill to cheat for the lost airspace.

As for an amp I'm runnin A JL 2 channel in mono mode (you can get a 2 channel cheaper and still get as much power)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136J236....html?tp=35757
$169.00

So for 320.00 I have a system that sounds amazing

if your lookin to put somethin behind the drivers side, I'm sure you could find a 10 or an 8

 

Eimer, we may have to do that. Ill be pulling out the seat tomorrow to see exactly how much space I have to work with.

Thanks Ueland! Are you running the factory headunit or aftermarket? Ive heard people get some buzzing sometimes when putting an amp on a factory stereo.

 

If you have the stock 1CD radio that's probably a decent part of it. I noticed a huge difference in sound quality between my stock one and the MyGig on my Polk db650 coaxials. The bass is a little better too, it's still not a lot of low end but the factory speakers were very muddy sounding anyway. I prefer a cleaner sound and missing out on a bit of bass volume than muddy bass anyday. On that note, unless you like muddy bass I'd stay away from the bazooka tube.

 

yeah i thought about changing mine too...then a buddy did it to his dakota first with some sony that were supposed to be the best out and my stock system beats his in base! So i kept mine and have bragging rights! lol thats why i'm gonna save up for my 2 10" subs under the rear seats!

 

I'm runnin a factory style head unit with a rca box behind it (think its made by PAC) it gives me 2 sets of adjustable rca outputs. i'm also runnun an inline bass control also made by PAC thats mounted in that hole in the dash next to the 4wd selector.

As for the door speakers i went with infinitys.

my truck still looks 98% stock until the key is turned..........

 

To correct a few things.

A cylinder is one of the top best shapes you can have for a speaker enclosure. The only shape that is truely better is an egg shape. The less parralel sides you can have, especially when flat, the less chance of standing waves, that can cause peaks and nulls in the responce of a loud speaker system.

When you replace your OEM speakers with aftermarket speakers, it's not that you lose bass, per se, you gain mids and highs, which just makes it seem like you "lose" bass.

When sourcing a signal for the bass system, in the topic at hand, being a "high level" or "speaker level" signal, I have always found it best to run a pair of speakers wires to the deck, or OEM amplifier. You can source both left and right signals, to get proper summing of the signals, and easier level matching. In some systems when you use only a single side for signal, the level could be too low to achieve proper balance between the subwoofer system and the mids and highs system. I also prefer as close to the deck or OEM amplifier as possible, because the spaker itself can act like a microphone and when large amounts of bass are produced near the speaker, the sympathic vibrations of the speakers can cause a signal to be created, which will then feed to sub system, this creates a sound like you've never heard before, and can cause damage. When the signal is picked up farther away from the speaker the signal is stronger and due to some other damping properties of the amplifiers will help keep the issue I mentioned from happening.

I have used both Bazzoka tubes and the MTX Thunder forms, both work well, from a sound quality stand point I'd probably have to say in most cases I've prefered the Bazooka tubes, in shear output, and fitment, the MTX Thunderforms seems to have the advantage, most often.

This is one area I've been scoping out since getting my 2005 Dak last Friday, and haven't completly decided how I'm going to deal with the lack of space.

At this point I'm leaning towards an Isobaric 4th order bandpass enclosure built to fit under the cab floor, just in front of the fuel tank, between the tranny and the frame rail.

I'm going to open up the rear doors and see if I could fit some nice 8" or 10" infinate baffle subs in there, replacing the rear speakers, since I don't use them anyway, as an alternative.

I have a couple other ideas too, but these are the two top ones.

 

nice info

 

Is this what you used Ueland?
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
Just to make sure, this will allow me to keep the speakers in my doors powered by my factory head unit, and give me (a few too many) low level outs for a subwoofer? Or do I need to power my door speakers with an amp?

Great info Six Shooter. Keep us updated on what you do! Im happy to hear something positive about a Bazooka.

 

You haven't looked very hard, I have seen tubes, or variations on tubes used several times in SQ, I've built quite few myself. They sounded very good. Just because something isn't common to use doesn't mean it's not good. I only know of one person to build an egg shaped enclosure, and he said it was very difficult to get the perfect egg shape.

This statement makes absolutly no sense.

I've done this on a lesser scale in a couple other vehicles, the speakers were not used as subs, but as mid bass with some very good bottom end extension, mostly used to get the "bass up front" effect, and still had larger subs.


The bandpass sounds awesome, make sure to get some pics up when you get it done. (if thats the way you decide to go)[/quote]