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EGR Valve Diag.

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  #21  
Old 10-08-2010 | 05:12 PM
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Yup, ive went through a few cans. Ive done a few searches and a lot of people have had similar issues, and either they have replaced the TPS or just ran it for a while and eventually the PCM relearned the proper idle. I have a spare TPS already, so I may put that on the truck (It didnt fix it last time) and Ill just drive it for now. The idle doesnt cause problems, its just irritating and its not good for the trans to throw it in drive when its sitting at 1200 RPM. Ive driven it for a couple days now and its seems to be a little better.
 
  #22  
Old 10-08-2010 | 05:35 PM
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I have a Fastman TB and no current idle issues, except an occasional high idle that gets fixed with a quick pop of the pedal. However, I was experiencing an idle surge. The idle would go up and down from 600-1100 rpm. That seems to have gone away after an A/C service. The tech found a vacuum leak on the air blender control hose. It comes out of the pass side firewall and was touching the exhaust manifold. Melted a hole in it. I would think: keep looking for a vacuum leak.
 
  #23  
Old 10-08-2010 | 05:42 PM
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I will have to check that out. Thanks Deer Hunter. I just cant imagine why it only does it with my Fastman on. If there was a vacuum leak, it should do it regardless. But who knows.
 
  #24  
Old 10-08-2010 | 05:46 PM
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If it only does it with FM TB, check to be sure throttle cable and kick down cable are not binding. Or that the butterfly in the TB is operating properly. Also, if it only happens with a warm engine, check these when eng is warm. Better yet, check these things when high idle is happening.
 

Last edited by Deer Hunter; 10-08-2010 at 05:53 PM. Reason: additional suggestion
  #25  
Old 10-08-2010 | 05:50 PM
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Yeah, Im going to take a look when I get home. Im changing the oil today and will probably give it a wash before I take it out tonight.
 
  #26  
Old 10-08-2010 | 06:02 PM
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Yeah, sometimes we overlook the obvious. Like metal expanding with heat and causing binding somewhere that the fit is less than perfect.
 
  #27  
Old 10-08-2010 | 11:26 PM
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Rengnath.. you working on your truck this Saturday?
 
  #28  
Old 10-09-2010 | 03:32 AM
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Eimer, I work until 6, but Ill probably be cleaning it after that. No engine work on it unless Im feeling good and decide to put the catch can on. Lol

The truck seems to be learning the idle. I went cruising and put about 70 miles on. Pulling up to stop lights I would put it in nuetral to see if the RPMs raised, and it only raised 1 out of every 3-4 times. Its not consistent, and it used to be worse. I couldnt find any vacuum leak on the passanger side of the engine bay when I was under the hood today.
 
  #29  
Old 10-11-2010 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Deer Hunter
I have a Fastman TB and no current idle issues, except an occasional high idle that gets fixed with a quick pop of the pedal. However, I was experiencing an idle surge. The idle would go up and down from 600-1100 rpm. That seems to have gone away after an A/C service. The tech found a vacuum leak on the air blender control hose. It comes out of the pass side firewall and was touching the exhaust manifold. Melted a hole in it. I would think: keep looking for a vacuum leak.
Hey Deer Hunter, where does the air blender control hose run when it comes out of the firewall? I was looking there today with my can of brakleen, and only saw 2 metal pipes coming from the passanger side for the A/C. Im interested to see if possibly mine may have a vacuum leak. I was spraying down everything and found nothing on the driver side. I started spraying the passanger side, and right after I did the throttle body the engine almost died. VACUUM LEAK! Only thing is I couldnt get it to do it again. Im thinking brakeleen started running down to the ground and hit the vacuum leak along the way. I went through 1.5 cans trying to find it again.

I also checked out the TPS for any problems. The TPS% stays the same at idle regardless if its idling normally or surging. The throttle body is also closing completly during the idle problem.
 
  #30  
Old 10-15-2010 | 02:00 AM
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The blender hose comes out of the upper firewall just above the tranny dipstick. One end goes to the brake booster and the other t's off and goes down and back behind the evaporater. That hose that goes down had a hole from rubbing against something. Unfortunately, any vacuum line that is rubber is a candidate for dry rot or hard to find cracks. Especially at connection points due to heat, road salt and chemicals (oils,fuel,etc.). The quality of modern rubber hose is not great. Check all connections well, if any connection looks suspicious and you have the slack, snip 1/4" off the end of the hose and reconnect. Vacuum problems, like electrical problems, can be a real pita to locate. Hope this helps.
Just a quick example. Last year my brothers 03 had a cel on for a month and nobody could find the problem. One day while underneath, he saw a connection down on the framerail with just 1 slight dry rot crack. He pulled it off, it looked and felt good, and just for sh*ts & giggles he snipped the end and reconnected. The next day tha cel went out and hasn't been on since.
 



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