Hear is my idea, my very basic idea.....

1. struts: put a spacer on top and the trailmaster kit on the bottom.
2. then dare i say use the airbagit.com upper arms and ball joints.
3. flip the tie rod ends to the top of the spindle
4. this is the hard part, to drop the front diff would have to be custom because at least on the 3.7s the motor mount and diff mounts are one. get those fabricated, i happen to live by a place called attitude performance, maybe you have heard of it. i am thinkin drop the diff 2-2.5"
5. lowering the diff would make the front drive shaft hit the down pipe, but i think rerouting that would be the easiest thing of all.

please tell me if i am way off or at least in the right direction.....
i actually spent some time on this so dont bash me to hard.
if you guys think this is a step in the right direction i wouldn't mind doing some leg work running it by the guys at the shop. I'm no fabricator so i dont want to go to them and get laughed at.....

there is a kid on cardomian that put the 4" kit on his 2wd and he is sittin on 35s

 

is this just for 4x2?

 

Nevermind... I didnt read the part wear you drop the diff

 

its worth a shot i guess if your addressing the cv issue then thats a step in the right direction still airbaggits stuff isnt the greatest but be a guinea pig let us know lol still you may limit your suspension travel with that top spacer

 

I dont think the loss of travel would be that bad though. How would you drop the diff?

 

Go to google or you tube and look up the term "deat wobble". You might even be able to find a vid or two of it...
Its more common on Jeeps, but its usually a result of unstable springs and suspension.

I can't say for sure, but putting a spacer on top and bottom of a spring would almost definitely induce such a condition....

 

I thought the dealth wobble happend when the stearing stabilizers went bad. but what if you just got one spacer made for the top like a 4 inch spacer.

 

you better take a closer look at the diff to frame clearence, the frame will need to be modified, and i believe the rack will be in the way also, to do any kind of a diff drop, the double leveling kit may work, but if the new a-arm allows any more travel than the stock one does the c/v's dont have enough travel, and will come apart, i looked at this the last time i had mine apart, after poping the upper ball off, the suspention droped just a little and the c/v seperated, but if your able to drop the diff, that wouldnt be a problem, flipping the tierod will through off the geometry of the suspention, and can cause major problems

 

You'd actually need longer springs and totally redesigned upper and lower control arms that were extended in length. or had a bend to make up for the exagerated angle they would be placed at

 

haha alright guys thanks, idea = trashed