Lower Ball Joint R&R?
#11
12-16-2010 | 10:15 AM
Thread Starter
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Amateur
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 43
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Sorry no pics.
I would suggest climbing under the truck giving all the hardware a shot of real penetrating oil a day or two first. I would recomend hitting the uncovered threads of the tie rod/BJ threads with a wire brush or wheel if you plan to reinstall before taking the nut off.
Get the BJ tool I rented. Make sure you have snap ring pliers of course. You also might want to rent a jaw type tie rod end remover to pop out the tapered studs instead of a hammer. I had a pitman arm puller that worked for me.
Also make sure you have a good 2-3 jaw puller on hand in case you encounter seized splines on the driveshaft. PB blaster and a little heat from a propane torch worked well but I would avoid cooking the hub too hot. In my case I only heated it a little and was able to crank on the puller to pop it out. Wire brushing both sets of splines allowed it to slip back together along with some anti seize to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Follow the install instructions with the joint. The greasable one needs to be oriented.
Otherwise its just like the FSM says. Took me about 2 hours straight time including fighting with the stuck axle.
I didn't replace the uppers but from what I could see, there is nothing adjustable in the upper so it should be a straightforward R&R.
I would suggest climbing under the truck giving all the hardware a shot of real penetrating oil a day or two first. I would recomend hitting the uncovered threads of the tie rod/BJ threads with a wire brush or wheel if you plan to reinstall before taking the nut off.
Get the BJ tool I rented. Make sure you have snap ring pliers of course. You also might want to rent a jaw type tie rod end remover to pop out the tapered studs instead of a hammer. I had a pitman arm puller that worked for me.
Also make sure you have a good 2-3 jaw puller on hand in case you encounter seized splines on the driveshaft. PB blaster and a little heat from a propane torch worked well but I would avoid cooking the hub too hot. In my case I only heated it a little and was able to crank on the puller to pop it out. Wire brushing both sets of splines allowed it to slip back together along with some anti seize to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Follow the install instructions with the joint. The greasable one needs to be oriented.
Otherwise its just like the FSM says. Took me about 2 hours straight time including fighting with the stuck axle.
I didn't replace the uppers but from what I could see, there is nothing adjustable in the upper so it should be a straightforward R&R.
#12
12-16-2010 | 11:12 AM
Champion
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,686
Likes: 0
From: Greenfield, Wisconsin
ROFL! I cant help but think dirty about this one ..... I hope they clean it atleast before the next person rents it.
On a more serious note, the upper ball joints are normally just replaced by swapping the whole upper arm. You can get the whole arm and ball joint assembly for about $100 each from Oreilly and its a matter or removing 2 bolts and a nut to swap them out.
On a more serious note, the upper ball joints are normally just replaced by swapping the whole upper arm. You can get the whole arm and ball joint assembly for about $100 each from Oreilly and its a matter or removing 2 bolts and a nut to swap them out.