My lower ball joints are shot. Service manual says replace at .020" play and mine are at .030". I have moog units but didn't have an axle nut socket so I didn't start the job.

Anybody do this job already? Any tips?

Axle nut appears to be 1 3/8". Can the joint be pressed out with your typical ball joint R&R kit available for rental at Autozone/Advance auto??

 

When I did mine a couple months ago I had to cut the lower conrtol arm bolts and buy new ones ($36.00 EACH retail), and use a 12 ton press to press the ball joints out and in.

This is one job, that I would say unless you have access to a very well equipped repair shop, just pay to have it done.

I know a guy I was talking to after I did mine that runs a local shop said he a special press that would allow him to re&re the ball joint without removing the lower control arm.

I'm still glad I did it the "hard way", because now I can actually have my alignment set and take it apart without cutting tools next time.

 

Ugh, not what I wanted to hear. I am hoping I don't have to remove the lower arms.

 

i didnt have to taker the axle nut off
You just have to unbolt the lower controll arm and eather press it out or bamg it out with a hammer. Itll take some time the first time you do it but if ytou ever do it again its pretty easy.

 

Both of you pulled the lower arm off to do this? I was hoping not to disturb the arm to frame cam bolts so I wouldn't disturb alignment.

The factory shop manual shows that the axle nut has to come off (35mm) and then then the caliper, caliper bracket, both ball joint nuts and tie rod end. Then the knuckle can be removed and ball joint replaced with the arm on the truck.

I rented the ball joint tool from Advanced. Big C-clamp looking things with shells that fit various joints.

If I could simply undo the lower ball joint stud nut and R&R the joint that would be great, I just can see how I can pass the knuckle off the lower stud considering the knuckle attaches under the joint and it appears the CV joint will collide with the top of the arm before the stud clears the casting. But then again, my truck is not in front of me.

At least I gave everything a nice spritz of PB blaster yesterday....

 

If you have the tool to remove and replace on the vehicle it can be done. I believe the manual directs you to the part number of the mopar tools.

 

This is what I rented.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...92_T%7CGRP2083____

This is to press out and in the lower ball joint.

I should be able to handle everything else myself.

 

Done.

The rented ball joint tool worked like a dream. The only hangup I had was that drivers axle splines rusted in the hub. The pass side simply slid right out.

I hated to do it but I warmed the wheel flange only with propane and finally pushed it apart with a puller. It didn't get much hotter than hot to touch which I am sure is well within the operating temp limit of the bearing.

 

Only one caveat. The Moog instructions had some torque specs and since the instructions seemed very specific I followed them. They said 80 lb/ft on the tie rod nuts and 90 on the upper ball joint.

Later on I noticed the torque specs in the FSM were 55 for both. I wonder the reason for the discrepancy?

 

Any other tips or such you can throw out there. I think this needs done on mine, but am a little hesitant to dive in.

One question for others. Did anyone do the upper control arm replacement also? Wanting to know how hard that was and if it needed aligned afterwords. Thanks.