I want to do a coolant drain and refill on my truck. No problems with overheating or lack of cabin heat, the gauge levels out at about 2/3 between C and the half-way tick. But the truck has 60,000 miles and it's been colder than sht here lately, so I've got it on my mind. Also, the fill bottle has a disturbing looking corrosion slimeball at the bottom that I want to get rid of.

I understand the draining procedure - (with a cool engine), pop the radiator petcock and uncrew the block drain plugs.

But then how to fill? If I just dump antifreeze in the radiator and bottle, and start the cold motor, there will be no way for coolant to enter the block.

Am I just ignorant to another fill location, "behind" the closed thermostat?

 

Just put the garden hose in the intake hose from the radiator to the engine block, remove the return hose from the engine to the radiator on the radiator side and turn on the engine, let it run for a little bit and when the water comes out clear take out the water hose, put the radiator hoses back on locatioon and fill'er up with new coolant. remember that the coolant required is not green, Napa sells the factory replacement, i think is called Zerex, it's a clear coolant .. Good luck!!!

 

Two things -

1st - is ZEREX mandatory? Wal-Mart SuperTech blend says it's rated for "ALL MAKES AND MODELS", and specifically mentions aluminum engine parts. Dodge requires HOAT coolants for aluminum component protection. So...can I roll with the Wally brand?

Also, help me walk through this :

1) Drain engine and radiator. There is now no coolant anywhere, but in my collection pan.

2) Now I have an empty cold engine with a closed thermostat. The radiator is isolated from the block circuit. If I fill the bottle and radiator, there is still no coolant in the block. Do I just fire her up, and wait for the ambient temp to open the thermostat? Running motors without coolant makes me very nervous...it was a #1 NO NO when I tested newly rebuilt marine engines.

I might flush it, the Prestone flush kit is $4 and looks pretty easy, but I gotta say that sounds miserable in the winter. I'd rather drain and fill, unless the stuff coming out looks bad.

Thanks for the help, I'm not trying to be thick, but I don't want to cook the rings or valves due to lack of coolant!

 

I use the Wal-mart brand anti-freeze in mine. Drain plug for the radiator is on the drivers side close to the bottom. Small white butterfly type plastic screw. Just back it out and let it drain.

 

Thanks Blown, I figured the WalMart stuff is OK. I swear by SuperTech ST3600 oil filters - they were actually very highly rated in a filter test I read. Almost every modern vehicle has Al somwhere in it.

I want to do a complete coolant drain and fill - as in, open the block bolts, drain it dry.

**How do I get coolant back into the block?** Will filling the radiator backfill the block by pouring coolant down the radiator inlet hose? Is my question not making sense?

 

If you unbolt the thermostat housing and the water pump bolts you will drain it out. When you are ready bolt every thing up, screw the radiator drain back in and fill it up. Leave the radiator cap off and start the truck. It will bubble and just add radiator fluid until the level stops dropping. Put the cap back on, ensure the overflow is at the appropriate level and you will be good to go.

 

Cool man, thanks. As long as I won't be running the engine for a prolonged period of time with a dry block I will feel comfortable with it. Now i just need to find somewhere to drain and store 4 gallons of antifreeze!