Someone built a custom drop diff???
Sounds like it might work. I've recently started to try to figure out a front suspension lift and was either thinking of making a 2nd gen kit work or modifying pieces from a tacoma kit. Do the 2nd gen upper arms leveling kit allow the steering knuckle to sit lower and maintain the ball joint angle?
I'm new to this site and haven't worked too much on the suspension so correct me if I'm wrong:
For a front suspension lift, all I need to do is
-drop the lower control arms (using a drop bracket)
-drop the differential (and correct the cv angle)
-either extend the steering knuckle to be taller OR drop/lower the upper control arms
-replace coil over with a longer coil over OR drop the upper mount for the coil over (preferably replace the coil over to allow for more travel)
Like I said, I'm new to this so go easy on me if I messed something up!
I'm new to this site and haven't worked too much on the suspension so correct me if I'm wrong:
For a front suspension lift, all I need to do is
-drop the lower control arms (using a drop bracket)
-drop the differential (and correct the cv angle)
-either extend the steering knuckle to be taller OR drop/lower the upper control arms
-replace coil over with a longer coil over OR drop the upper mount for the coil over (preferably replace the coil over to allow for more travel)
Like I said, I'm new to this so go easy on me if I messed something up!
Thread Starter
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Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 1
From: Montréal Québec Poutine!
hey???
the lower control arms seem and lower ball joints seem pretty tuff and can handle extreme angle (like chasis teck kit) well the only problem is the upper control arms that the extreme angle due to a leveling kit destroy the ball joint...why nobody tried a spacer between control arm and ball joint??
Rookie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
the lower control arms seem and lower ball joints seem pretty tuff and can handle extreme angle (like chasis teck kit) well the only problem is the upper control arms that the extreme angle due to a leveling kit destroy the ball joint...why nobody tried a spacer between control arm and ball joint??
Thread Starter
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Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 1
From: Montréal Québec Poutine!
good to have one person more in the project
just depend on your tooling and skills im curious to see...
well what you can do is take 2 leveling kit at the same time tm(inside strut) and daystar stile(over strut) combinated, flip tie rod , use drop diff kit from rancho 2nd gen kit, a spacer between balljoint and control arm and exhaust will need a little modification to drop diff.
that is my futur project...and for the rear i have 1,5 block and im gonna go with 2500 ram leafs
well what you can do is take 2 leveling kit at the same time tm(inside strut) and daystar stile(over strut) combinated, flip tie rod , use drop diff kit from rancho 2nd gen kit, a spacer between balljoint and control arm and exhaust will need a little modification to drop diff.
that is my futur project...and for the rear i have 1,5 block and im gonna go with 2500 ram leafs
Rookie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
ok, ok
looked at it again today after school and i think we have a pretty good plan. For the steering kuckle/upper ball joint spacer, here's what I'm thinking:
Drill out the original hole on the steering knuckle that the ball joint goes into (if i remember correctly, this is normally tapered. Then, find thick walled steel pipe (about 2 inches OD) and on the bottom end, cap it off with probably 1/4 inch thick plate steel and drill a hole in the center the same size as the newly drilled hole in the steering knuckle. Weld this cap onto the pipe. Now, find/get 2 (1 for drivers side and 1 for pas side) old steering knuckles from a junk yard and cut off the ends (the same piece that we drilled out earlier). This piece is already a cylinder about 2 inches OD and 3/4 inch tall. This will be welded onto the top of the pipe. Now, extend the ball joint bolt. This can either be done by finding a prefabricated bolt extension (which is probably hard to find in the same threading), or by getting a long grade 8 bolt, cutting it to desired length, and welding the two bolts together end to end by slipping a small pipe that will join the two (this way you don't have to worry about the bolts staying inline when welding).
I will put up some pics in a second...trying to figure out how to get them from facebook to here
Drill out the original hole on the steering knuckle that the ball joint goes into (if i remember correctly, this is normally tapered. Then, find thick walled steel pipe (about 2 inches OD) and on the bottom end, cap it off with probably 1/4 inch thick plate steel and drill a hole in the center the same size as the newly drilled hole in the steering knuckle. Weld this cap onto the pipe. Now, find/get 2 (1 for drivers side and 1 for pas side) old steering knuckles from a junk yard and cut off the ends (the same piece that we drilled out earlier). This piece is already a cylinder about 2 inches OD and 3/4 inch tall. This will be welded onto the top of the pipe. Now, extend the ball joint bolt. This can either be done by finding a prefabricated bolt extension (which is probably hard to find in the same threading), or by getting a long grade 8 bolt, cutting it to desired length, and welding the two bolts together end to end by slipping a small pipe that will join the two (this way you don't have to worry about the bolts staying inline when welding).
I will put up some pics in a second...trying to figure out how to get them from facebook to here
Rookie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
like this...
uppera-armextensionplans.jpg
sorry the pic took so long. It took me a little while to figure out how to post pics...haha I can fab up parts on my spare time in nursing school but can't work a forum! lol
sorry the pic took so long. It took me a little while to figure out how to post pics...haha I can fab up parts on my spare time in nursing school but can't work a forum! lol
