Someone built a custom drop diff???
As for camber angle, I don't see how this design would affect it...however, welding the pipe to the casted piece wouldn't work out too well (thanks for pointing it out, I haven't had much experience welding but it makes sense).
As I understand the whole thing (those with engineering degrees feel free to correct me), the lower control arm is much larger because it is what supports the weight of the vehicle. The energy from the weight of the vehicle pushed downward and the energy of the tire pushing upward (when going over bumps) is transfered from the lower control arm to the chasis via the coil over assembly. Therefore, the upper control arm does not support the weight of the vehicle. The only purpose of the upper control arm is to maintain proper camber angle. The most force that is applied to the upper control arm/steering knuckle neck is lateral force caused by turning or if the weight of the vehicle is being supported only by one side of the tire (either inside or out). However, some of the force that would otherwise be applied laterally to the upper control arm/steering knuckle is transfered to the lower control arm. This is because the lower control arm acts as a pivot point when force attempts to change the camber. Since the distance between the lower control arm ball joint and the ground is less than the distance between the lower control arm ball joint and top of the steering knuckle, the upper control arm has leverage to it's advantage (although minimal, it does help). Since I don't plan on producing 1 G of lateral force in this vehicle (and sisnce one tire cannot handle nearly that much lateral force), I believe that with the new design, the extension piece will be sufficient.
FYI:
Other suspension lifts, such as this superlift system http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMK4xSW7Jyc uses the same idea that I am presenting. It uses front and rear cross members to drop the posistion of the lower control arms, and then replaces the stock steering knuckles with ones that have a taller neck...the same distance that the lower control arms are dropped is the same distance that the height of the steering knuckle is raised, thus maintaining proper camber.
You are right about safety first, and I didn't have full confidence in the first design either, so here's a new one, that, to me, seems just as strong as the stock steering knuckle/ball joint. In this new design (agian, correct me if I'm wrong), the weakest point would be the original ball joint bolt, and therefore should be as strong as the original setup (actually stronger since the original ball joint bolt is held on with a nut, which does not utilize as much of the bolt's thread as the new extension piece will. Also, the extension piece will put this bolt even further from the lower control arm ball joint, thus providing additional leverage to the upper ball joint assembly).
Enough talk for now...let me know what you guys think! You're the pros and engineers, I'm just a nursing student!
SteeringKnuckleExtensionVersion2.jpg
As I understand the whole thing (those with engineering degrees feel free to correct me), the lower control arm is much larger because it is what supports the weight of the vehicle. The energy from the weight of the vehicle pushed downward and the energy of the tire pushing upward (when going over bumps) is transfered from the lower control arm to the chasis via the coil over assembly. Therefore, the upper control arm does not support the weight of the vehicle. The only purpose of the upper control arm is to maintain proper camber angle. The most force that is applied to the upper control arm/steering knuckle neck is lateral force caused by turning or if the weight of the vehicle is being supported only by one side of the tire (either inside or out). However, some of the force that would otherwise be applied laterally to the upper control arm/steering knuckle is transfered to the lower control arm. This is because the lower control arm acts as a pivot point when force attempts to change the camber. Since the distance between the lower control arm ball joint and the ground is less than the distance between the lower control arm ball joint and top of the steering knuckle, the upper control arm has leverage to it's advantage (although minimal, it does help). Since I don't plan on producing 1 G of lateral force in this vehicle (and sisnce one tire cannot handle nearly that much lateral force), I believe that with the new design, the extension piece will be sufficient.
FYI:
Other suspension lifts, such as this superlift system http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMK4xSW7Jyc uses the same idea that I am presenting. It uses front and rear cross members to drop the posistion of the lower control arms, and then replaces the stock steering knuckles with ones that have a taller neck...the same distance that the lower control arms are dropped is the same distance that the height of the steering knuckle is raised, thus maintaining proper camber.
You are right about safety first, and I didn't have full confidence in the first design either, so here's a new one, that, to me, seems just as strong as the stock steering knuckle/ball joint. In this new design (agian, correct me if I'm wrong), the weakest point would be the original ball joint bolt, and therefore should be as strong as the original setup (actually stronger since the original ball joint bolt is held on with a nut, which does not utilize as much of the bolt's thread as the new extension piece will. Also, the extension piece will put this bolt even further from the lower control arm ball joint, thus providing additional leverage to the upper ball joint assembly).
Enough talk for now...let me know what you guys think! You're the pros and engineers, I'm just a nursing student!
SteeringKnuckleExtensionVersion2.jpg
Yeah, that's what I started looking into. I tried looking up the 2006 Ram 1500 components so I could see how much modification would be needed to make our trucks fit a Ram lift, but I haven't found anything useful so far. Just everyone saying "won't work!"
That's not true though, ANYTHING can work, the question is how will I make it work?
This seems like discussion for a different thread but I will still need a custom drop for the differential so if you guys figure it out let me know!
That's not true though, ANYTHING can work, the question is how will I make it work?
This seems like discussion for a different thread but I will still need a custom drop for the differential so if you guys figure it out let me know!
http://www.roughcountry.com/suspensi...m_06-08_6.html
if spindle and lower arms are the same it should fit with modification
http://www.roughcountry.com/install/326.pdf
if some one have a neibor or a friend with a ram 2006-2008 plz compare cross members compatibility!!!
if spindle and lower arms are the same it should fit with modification
http://www.roughcountry.com/install/326.pdf
if some one have a neibor or a friend with a ram 2006-2008 plz compare cross members compatibility!!!
Last edited by lghtngblt02; Feb 4, 2011 at 09:53 AM. Reason: Use Edit
I called rough country and they said it wouldn't work. I also went to the dodge dealership parts department and asked them to look up parts to see how compatible they would be and he said its too different. I also called a 4x4 shop near me and they said its not compatible. However, I don't believe the person I spoke with at rough country or the guy at the 4x4 shop actually knows much about the dakotas.
for your idea for the welded spindles why not cut it in the middle add a plate with 2 screws on each end and bolt the plate to spindle
0 0 bolts
|_________________| sipidle
| |
| | plate
| |
|________________|
| |spinlde
0 0
Aggg it mooved! hope you understand
0 0 bolts
|_________________| sipidle
| |
| | plate
| |
|________________|
| |spinlde
0 0
Aggg it mooved! hope you understand
Last edited by lghtngblt02; Feb 4, 2011 at 09:54 AM. Reason: USE Edit
i have done a lot of reasearch on the ram lift, turns out that all 3 ball joints are different sizes compared to the dak, as well as tie rod sizes, frame width and mounting points, its all different, but i'm still researching to see is some special parts can be found to adapt the two, if i could just get a lift spindel figured out the rest would be a breez...
I agree with dodgetrucker...I also did a lot of research, both on the ram lift and on what it takes to lift our trucks. The only thing I am worried about is the spindles. Plates might work, but I wouldn't feel comfortable on the highway with them. The rest of the kit, even if it doesn't work, could still be fabricated by welding together plate steel and drilling holes in it where needed. By buddy from nursing school has a 2007 Ram so I've been bugging him about meeting up and attempting to swap spindles. We've just both been so busy with school it makes it hard. Don't worry guys, we can get this figured out! If I wasn't so strapped for cash I would buy the kit and try to install it ASAP but I want to research and test a little more first. This might be a good thing though since I should probably be focusing on homework haha!
If I remember correctly, the lateral (outside) of of the spindle is groved, which would make the plates very narrow and with a hole in it for the bolt, it would not be very strong. Also, the spindle is at an unfortunate angle, which would cause the spindle to stick out further more than it would increase the height if plates were to be added. Good idea though.


