oh yea i forgot we dont have hanging shackles....well in that case we would simply cut the rear hanger and go bolt on hanger with a downward facing shackle....and a longer shackle.

 

So the only drawback I'm seeing is the axle wrap, what exactly is axle wrap, having a hard time understanding what that is lol and what causes it to happen?

 

Its when the one or both blocks shift opposite of perpendicular to the ground, making one side of the axle shift fowards or backwards which in turn makes the rear of the truck not correctly track with the front....make sense?

 

sort of....its the clockwise or ccw twisting motion of the axle as power is laid down. think of the leaf springs as a line. at ride height that line for the most part is straight. with little arch. well as power is laid down. the leafs make and 'S' shape from the torque. adding blocks puts sort of a cushion between the axle and the leaf contact patch causing the S to become greater. hardly noticable but any axle wrap is bad.

alot of people put trac bars from the rear point next to the rear hangers and then weld them to the axle housing...or straight underneath the rear portion of the leaf itself but that loses ground clearance.

pick through this thread. it explains it all and shows pics of what the trac bars are. very simple and cheap to make. and changes the ride quality completely. here

 

Yeah I kinda of exaggerated a little to get the point... but your description is more like what I was trying to describe.

 

axle wrap:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef6lTenmPUo

 

Thank you guys for those explanations!! They all helped However i dont go offroading or towing or anything to put my axle or leaf springs in that much strain, so should i be worried about it?

 

even for hooking off the line if your taking some ricer light to light. no matter what you do i would suggest it. but for what you do im not sure a couple hundred could be justified. some companies come with them out of the box. its more of a cost issue than a "we dont do it because it doesnt work" issue.

no matter your application anti wrap bars are good. especially since we have v8s. so is taking off a sway bar in the front. even if you dont go jumping or hitting woops. it still unleashes the trucks inner most capabilities.

 

Well i dont have a V8 so theres not that much torque!!

 

when you get into large lift blocks you have to start worrying about incorrect pinion angle, which will cause binding, premature wear and void the warranty of the rear u-joint.

The second is that when you accelerate the rear differential transfers torque into the leaf springs, the twisting motion of the diff is known as axle wrap as it is trying to twist the leaf springs into an "S" shape, lift blocks create more leverage between the axle and the leaf springs therefore increasing axle wrap.

Increased axle wrap will also bind the pinion angle as well as cause wheel hop under heavy acceleration, decreasing traction and making the whole truck "shudder".

if your not worried about axle wrap, blocks are cheap bolt em in, check the angle and add shins as needed.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html

i have a set of two inch blocks in the rear and i had to grind down the pin a little bit but thats about it.

if you go the block route you need 2.25" wide, with taper

8.25 axle you will need u bolts that are roughly 10.5"long(for two inch blocks), you need rounded end u-bolts, with a 3" inner diameter

9.25 axle you will need u bolts that are roughly 10.5"long(for two inch blocks), you need rounded end u-bolts, with a 3.5" inner diameter

if you need to know which one you have the 8.25 is oval and has 10 bolts, the 9.25 is octagonal and has 12 bolts.

8.25



9.25