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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 08:33 PM
  #11  
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Yes, did that when I had it off.

Tomorrow I may twist that shaft back and reset the pcm again...
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 08:39 PM
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I hope it works out for you man! I hope you see that I was not imagining this problem when I had it. It used to irritate the hell out of me .... and it emptied my wallet to after buying all new Mopar sensors.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 08:41 PM
  #13  
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First I am going to run it this way to rule out the TPS, if it comes back I may have a leak somewhere, and then Ill but everything back to normal, reset the pcm and find the leak.


or I am being impatient and not letting it learn...
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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Yeah, I went around every single seal on my engine with propane. The only thing that I thought would solve the problem was the EGR valve. The tuner was showing it opening 7% at idle and I thought it was creating my vacuum leak .... but that is normal function.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by lghtngblt02
or I am being impatient and not letting it learn...
YES!!! Quit monkeying with it and just drive! You bought this one used?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #16  
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Well just went for a 20 min drive, brought the truck up to operating temps. alittle stop go, straight stretch, different speeds, and this thing isnt doing the idle search. I am gong to keep driving it and keep an eye on it. I still my tweak that back and reset it to try to replicate the problem.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 09:30 PM
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one thing that was always sure to set it off for me was after driving, I would come to a stop and if I had the steering wheel turned when I put it in park, it always got the high/surge idle. If I remembered to center the wheel and let the pressures equalize in the pump/rack so it was not loading the engine, then put it in park, it would not do it...
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 10:32 AM
  #18  
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Well guys this morning everything was still normal. After logically thinking about it, doing some research, talking with Bobby and doing all the adjustments I think my TPS was spot on even before I tweaked the shaft, I think between the computer learning this TB, the small stick/misaligned plate and that screw not being adjusted it is or was my issue... tonight I am going to tweak the shaft back straight as compared to stock, reset the computer and start over... I think my computer has a learned incorrect TPS values and if I start messing with the trans tuning once I settle this, I dont want to be the black sheep with TPS values.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 10:47 AM
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you went back to the stock tune for all this, right? I have to remember to do that when I get my new one. Install the tb and put the tune to stock, then drive it around fior a few hundred miles or so before re-tuning.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 10:59 AM
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I wouldnt worry about twisting it back. Like I said, TP% is irrelevant to shifting and the PCM in general. Its all converted to a voltage. When you reset the PCM, the truck recognizes the current TP% as idle and 0% throttle. You could prop your blade open about 1/8", reset the computer, and start the truck up and it will actually idle as long as the engine is cold. Once it warms up, air demands are lowered so the idle will rise. But there is no need to adjust your TPS.

Your shift schedule is based off of the "Accel Pedal Pos" in the NGC3/4 menu on the data logging feature. Your shifting is based off of that number, and if you go in there you should see it read 0% at idle, and about that 70% range at WOT. That is the only thing that matters. Your truck would be shifting way low if it was based of your 4% TPS percentage ..... so low you probably wouldnt be able to get it moving without giving it half throttle or more.
 
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