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Truck broke down

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  #21  
Old 07-16-2011 | 10:18 PM
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I look at beer all day at work, so I drink whiskey and brandy old fashioned's, if I drink much more I might kick in my fender or somethin haha
 
  #22  
Old 07-16-2011 | 10:46 PM
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OK, I have had the same issues as you...replaced the MAP, ran good but still had the idles issues. It would come/go, but pulling the battery and clearing the PCM worked for over 6 months...until this past week. Idle was WAY erratic, most of the time when cold (truck not warmed up). I finally bought a a new IAC (Standard Motor Parts AC 482, which when it came in had the Mopar part number on it!...$54 from Amazon).

Since changing this, the truck never idled so well!

I never set a CEL forthe IAC, but did eventually set it for the sludged up MAP.

Hope this helps, Hammond

P.S. It happened with my stock TB and the Hipotek...also, both were clean when it happened.
 
  #23  
Old 07-16-2011 | 11:06 PM
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I did the IAC 3 months ago and it ran great, till this. I was just reading that the bad MAP can fowl plugs, I have some coppers in my console for emergencies but they are going in tomorrow. If I have problems after that more whiskey I guess!
 
  #24  
Old 07-16-2011 | 11:14 PM
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Oh, bad map screws EVERYTHING up....idle, timing, shifting, etc.
My rev limiter would kick in at 3k, and it only shifted as far as second!

It idled pretty mean, though

What year do you have?
 
  #25  
Old 07-19-2011 | 05:52 PM
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Put new plugs in on sunday, still messed up. Put in the new egr yesterday still not running right. Stopped at a mechanics shop he put a scanner on it and came up with map and tps not agreeing with each other. Anyone had this? Or do I replace tps again? I would put a volt meter on it but don't have one
 
  #26  
Old 07-19-2011 | 07:53 PM
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Hmm..maybe start by making sure the parts you replaced matched the boxes they came in?
Do you have the code number he got?
No CEL?
 
  #27  
Old 07-19-2011 | 10:18 PM
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No cel at all just a stored one. Didn't give me the code, didn't have pay either. He said it had to be the tps. I took it off when I got home very little resistance when I was twisting it back on, almost none. Man hope that's it and not shorting wires.
 
  #28  
Old 07-20-2011 | 08:58 PM
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Tps was under warranty, new one free. Runs good, but the other one went bad due to heat according to some suit at the store. He said due to my increase in mpg I am running lean and it caused the sensors to burn up. I never cracked the mid point on my temp gauge except one time briefly on a 100 degree day. He said check exhaust leaks, leaky injectors, and excessive vacuum. Any place I should start? Or is he full of it? Kinda makes me wonder.
 
  #29  
Old 08-08-2011 | 09:21 PM
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Chock it up to a poorly manufactured sensor and call it a day. Heat soak is rough on everything, but it's part of a internal combustion engine. Not sure on these, but gen 2 Dakotas were famous for going through ball joints from heat soak. The better you ventilate the engine bay, the longer parts will last. Hood scoops, tearing out the seals around the radiator (not the fan shroud, but the flaps on the sides of the radiator), these things help.
 
  #30  
Old 08-09-2011 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by moparmaniac1999
Tps was under warranty, new one free. Runs good, but the other one went bad due to heat according to some suit at the store. He said due to my increase in mpg I am running lean and it caused the sensors to burn up. I never cracked the mid point on my temp gauge except one time briefly on a 100 degree day. He said check exhaust leaks, leaky injectors, and excessive vacuum. Any place I should start? Or is he full of it? Kinda makes me wonder.
I think he's full of it... yeah heat is a negative on electronics but I can't imagine any of what he said would cause that big of a temperature increase unless it was directed on the TPS itself, which is highly unlikely.
 



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