Leveling Kit Installed!
#1
Leveling Kit Installed!
Took about 4 hours start to finish, most of that on the first side trying to figure out some clearance issues with removing/installing the strut. Found it is WAY easier if you remove the axle nut (for the 4x4 guys) so the axle can be removed from the hub and also remove the stabilizer bar. Makes it much, much easier to get the strut in.
1. Jack it up, remove the wheel, place on jack stands.
2. Remove the caliper and brake disk.
3. Remove the 3 top strut nuts (15mm, deep well or semi-deep well sockets recommended for all these nuts)
2011-07-17_12-05-12_840_zpsf5dc7fb3.jpg
4. Remove the stabilizer link top (16mm) and bottom (15mm) nuts. You will need vise grips or open end wrench (13mm) to keep the link from turning while removing the nuts.
2011-07-17_12-07-38_484_zpsabe0efd4.jpg
5. Remove the lower strut nut (24mm) and bolt (21mm).
6. Remove the tie rod nut (19mm) and tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
7. Remove the axle nut (for 4x4).
8. Remove the upper control arm ball joint nut (19mm) and separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. (it is advisable to support the knuckle with a floor jack so it does not abruptly fall when the ball joint breaks loose.
2011-07-17_12-46-29_354.jpg
8. Remove the strut assy.
2011-07-17_13-02-09_965.jpg
9. Install is reverse. I ran into two issues: On the passenger side, could not get the front side of the strut to line up with the hole, was just barely off but enough that the bolt would not go through the strut hole. I had to file off about 1/8" deep by 1/4" wide of metal so it would line up.
2011-07-17_13-14-19_810.jpg 2011-07-17_13-14-30_314.jpg
The I ran into the fact that I had about 6" of distance between the upper control arm ball joint and the knuckle.
2011-07-17_13-33-20_659-1_zps3215f349.jpg
Big shout out to Maxtorq for his idea about using a chain attached to the floor jack and wrapped around the upper control arm, I used a ratchet strap instead, wrapped it around the upper control arm and put the hooks on the axle of the floor jack, this way, as you jack up the bottom control arm, it also brings the top control arm down and at the same time and keeps the truck itself from going up. Kinda squeezes the control arms together if you get the idea.
2011-07-17_13-33-20_659-1_zps3215f349.jpg
This was the 2" daystar over the strut kit (THANKS Ruger!!)
Thats about it, pretty straight forward. Couple of busted fingers and scraped knuckles. Dont forget to get an alignment. I'm going to get that done tomorrow. Truck sits pretty level. Time for bigger tires!!!
2011-07-17_16-39-07_704_zps127312e0.jpg
1. Jack it up, remove the wheel, place on jack stands.
2. Remove the caliper and brake disk.
3. Remove the 3 top strut nuts (15mm, deep well or semi-deep well sockets recommended for all these nuts)
2011-07-17_12-05-12_840_zpsf5dc7fb3.jpg
4. Remove the stabilizer link top (16mm) and bottom (15mm) nuts. You will need vise grips or open end wrench (13mm) to keep the link from turning while removing the nuts.
2011-07-17_12-07-38_484_zpsabe0efd4.jpg
5. Remove the lower strut nut (24mm) and bolt (21mm).
6. Remove the tie rod nut (19mm) and tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
7. Remove the axle nut (for 4x4).
8. Remove the upper control arm ball joint nut (19mm) and separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. (it is advisable to support the knuckle with a floor jack so it does not abruptly fall when the ball joint breaks loose.
2011-07-17_12-46-29_354.jpg
8. Remove the strut assy.
2011-07-17_13-02-09_965.jpg
9. Install is reverse. I ran into two issues: On the passenger side, could not get the front side of the strut to line up with the hole, was just barely off but enough that the bolt would not go through the strut hole. I had to file off about 1/8" deep by 1/4" wide of metal so it would line up.
2011-07-17_13-14-19_810.jpg 2011-07-17_13-14-30_314.jpg
The I ran into the fact that I had about 6" of distance between the upper control arm ball joint and the knuckle.
2011-07-17_13-33-20_659-1_zps3215f349.jpg
Big shout out to Maxtorq for his idea about using a chain attached to the floor jack and wrapped around the upper control arm, I used a ratchet strap instead, wrapped it around the upper control arm and put the hooks on the axle of the floor jack, this way, as you jack up the bottom control arm, it also brings the top control arm down and at the same time and keeps the truck itself from going up. Kinda squeezes the control arms together if you get the idea.
2011-07-17_13-33-20_659-1_zps3215f349.jpg
This was the 2" daystar over the strut kit (THANKS Ruger!!)
Thats about it, pretty straight forward. Couple of busted fingers and scraped knuckles. Dont forget to get an alignment. I'm going to get that done tomorrow. Truck sits pretty level. Time for bigger tires!!!
2011-07-17_16-39-07_704_zps127312e0.jpg
Last edited by jkeaton; 02-15-2018 at 03:19 PM.
#2
LOOKS GREAT! CONGRATS! can wait to see some bigger tires! good pics and great write up.......you for got one thing tho..... how did you tie up that caliper with speeker wire????????? hahahaha J/k man. took me about the same amount of time with mine about 3 hrs on the first side and an hr on the second after i figured out the daa gum first side it was easy. Excellent work.
#6
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