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Getting ready to change my rotors and pads. Which bolt to loosen?

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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 08:13 AM
  #11  
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Eimer123
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Originally Posted by ericemery
you don't need to remove the bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket.
I will have to disagree with this statement. Every time you remove the caliper to do brakes, you should pull the slide bolts (the two small ones in our case) clean all the old grease out, and check the slides for wear, and re-grease them. When I say clean them, I really mean clean the snot out of them. The old grease will be full of metal partials that will wear on the pins and caliper bracket.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #12  
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Did you use the old wheel barring? I know the rotors from Brake Performance come with new pressed in barring races but they told me you will have to use the old barring or buy new replacements. Did you purchase new replacement clips? If so did you buy dealer clips or local parts store. Did anyone change out the rear drum brakes? I ordered replacement drums and premium shoes with a hardware kit from Brake Performance.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 02:32 PM
  #13  
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Wheel bearing pressed into the rotor??? Our truck has the bearing pressed into the hub assembly not on the rotor. I bought replacement clips from the dealer, original ones should work if they are not destroyed.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 01:57 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by graythang
Did you use the old wheel barring? I know the rotors from Brake Performance come with new pressed in barring races but they told me you will have to use the old barring or buy new replacements. Did you purchase new replacement clips? If so did you buy dealer clips or local parts store. Did anyone change out the rear drum brakes? I ordered replacement drums and premium shoes with a hardware kit from Brake Performance.
I've done brakes and rotors before, but on older fords from early 90s and late 80s. Those all had rotors that doubled as the wheel hub with pressed in races and such. They also had large codder pin style slides that just knocked out with a chisle.. An ugly brake/rotor job but gave you a chance to repack your hub bearings and check the condition of all that.

Older thread, I know. But it is a great thread for first time brake jobbers so I'm ok with reviving it for those who are talking about brakes. My first time doing brakes on a newer vehicle, so this information will help a lot.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 10:55 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by graythang
Did you use the old wheel barring? I know the rotors from Brake Performance come with new pressed in barring races but they told me you will have to use the old barring or buy new replacements. Did you purchase new replacement clips? If so did you buy dealer clips or local parts store. Did anyone change out the rear drum brakes? I ordered replacement drums and premium shoes with a hardware kit from Brake Performance.
Originally Posted by FrenicX
I've done brakes and rotors before, but on older fords from early 90s and late 80s. Those all had rotors that doubled as the wheel hub with pressed in races and such. They also had large codder pin style slides that just knocked out with a chisle.. An ugly brake/rotor job but gave you a chance to repack your hub bearings and check the condition of all that.

Older thread, I know. But it is a great thread for first time brake jobbers so I'm ok with reviving it for those who are talking about brakes. My first time doing brakes on a newer vehicle, so this information will help a lot.
This is how the 1st gen daks were, they had the wheel bearings in the rotors, but not the 3rd gens...
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 02:20 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by lghtngblt02
This is how the 1st gen daks were, they had the wheel bearings in the rotors, but not the 3rd gens...
Yea a lot of newer vehicles are doing it this way. It makes it a lot easier on shops and DIYers a like. I'm pretty sure my 08 Kia is the same. I sure am glad though, i'd rather not repack bearings if I don't have too.
 
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