So I ordered my new rotors and pads from brakeperformance.com yesterday. I spent some time watching youtube videos about removing/replacing front brakes and rotors. I am confident I can do this.

I looked at my brake caliper this morning and have a question:

Which bolt do I need to loosen to remove the caliper? The smaller ones on the caliper itself, which don't seem to hold it onto anything, or the larger ones below?

I didn't have the wheel off and just crawled underneath to take a peak to put what I learned yesterday to a visual test today, so when I get the wheel off it might become more clear.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Also, can I still replace the rotors and pads if I have the park brake set? Seems to me like it would keep the pads pushed against the rotor and make it hard to get off?

Also, do I need to bleed the brakes? Some videos show/said to bleed the brakes and others said to just pump the brakes to get the pressure built back up.

 

Also, saw where one person put some kind of grease on the back of the pad before installing it on the caliper. Is this necessary?

 

you take off the 2 big bolts and everything will come apart....unless theres a lot of corrosion then you need a sledge to smack the rotor off the hub. the grease may be anti squeal goop, if you bought decent pads they should have shims on the back and you wont need the goop.

its an easy job but with any job working on a car you may run into issues (mine was corrosion) and it may take a lot longer than you anticipate.
while everything is off its also a good time to check tie rods and ***** joints, etc.

good luck

 

By all means, set the parking brake. The parking brake works on the back wheels only. Since you are jacking the front up, the back wheels need to be locked so it wont roll. You do not need to bleed the brakes. Replacing pads and rotors does not result in fluid loss or opening the system up to. You do need to keep an eye on the fluid reservoir as it will fill back up when you compress the caliper pistons. If you have added any fluid to compensate for worn pads, you might have to remove fluid to keep from overfilling the brake fluid reservoir. Its a fairly painless procedure to replace pads and rotors.

 

Just a note: When putting back on the caliper (with new pads), the pressure in the brake system will "close" the pads together and be difficult to get "over" the rotors.

 

The videos spoke about this, and said to just use a bid c-clamp to compress the piston back into its housing and put the pad on then slip the caliper over the rotor. If I don't fool around I think I can get it, if not, I'll be back on here or calling a buddy.

Thanks guys!!

BTW: I do my own oil, installed by own nerf bars, and do a lot of home repair and lawn mower repair. I have given this a lot of thought.

 

It's a super easy job - but in my case, it was critical to have air tools and a oxy-acetylene torch.

The caliper itself comes off with two bolts, and then the caliper bracket takes another two. You have to remove both to get the rotor off.

I had to give each rotor about a minute of heat before I could break them loose with a hammer.

I used the old pads and a C-clamp to drive the pistons back in. I wire brushed the bracket and cleaned things up, then slapped some copper anti-seize on the grooves the pads ride in. Our trucks don't really have brake shoes, or slide pins, or anything older "conventional" discs have. I think they're much simpler and very easy to service.

Make sure you use fresh anti-rattle clips!

I continue to be 100% satisfied with my brakeperformance.com basic OEM replacement semi-metallics. Great performance for the $.

 

I got the performance slotted rotors with the lifetime warping warranty and then upgraded to the $40 pads. When I checked around here for a similar level these were cheaper for the total package. Shipping was free too. Keep it coming great advice!!

 

My new pads and rotors will be here Monday, I will be doing a write up, since no one should have to pay to do the front brakes, its so simple.

 

honestly, no body should need a write up... its 4 bolts... to do both sides.

you dont need to remove the bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. it just makes it easier. if your rotors are rust welded to the hub, take pb blaster and soak them, then hit them with a little heat. I used a propane torch on mine, and the thermal shock was enough to bust them loose. if you have a hard time after heat, get them as hot as you can, and hit them with blaster, while they are hot. the temp difference will shock the rotor metal also. Since your tossing the stock rotors, dont be afraid to use a real hammer (with a metal head) to knock them off. To make sure mine didnt do it again, I put a skim layer of anti-seize on the rotors where they met the hub.