Closeout on headers!!
Are these a direct bolt on to a stock exhaust? My particular concern was a 4x4 manual tranny, but its a steal for ceramic coated at that price.
FYI: From the JBA header install guide: "For 2004-2007 Dodge Ram, 2005-2006 Dakota, and Durango with 4.7L V-8 - Two and Four Wheel Drive"
FYI: From the JBA header install guide: "For 2004-2007 Dodge Ram, 2005-2006 Dakota, and Durango with 4.7L V-8 - Two and Four Wheel Drive"
Last edited by novovictus1; Jan 22, 2012 at 08:18 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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Just got around to putting mine on yesterday. Mine's 2wd so no real challenge!
I started right after driving, while it was still hot (I've had better luck that way)
- Disconnected the battery, took the heat shields off and sprayed the bolts with rust buster while still warm.
- The two bolts at the rear are 12mm, the two bolts at the front are 13mm and the four in the middle are 10mm. The bolts to the y-pipe are 14mm.
- I never noticed till now that the motor is offset to the passenger side. The instructions recommend cutting off the extra threads on the rear-inside bolt for the passenger side strut-top. I'd recommend doing it before putting the header on. There's only about 1/4" clearance once the header is on.
- The instructions recommend removing the starter but I worked around it no problem.
- When bolting it back to the y-pipe, I recommend running up the top bolts by hand first, since they're harder to get to. Then you just have to tighten the bottom ones with tools.
The truck did feel perkier on the first drive but the real test will come when I do some towing. My car/trailer package weighs about 4,300lbs.
I started right after driving, while it was still hot (I've had better luck that way)
- Disconnected the battery, took the heat shields off and sprayed the bolts with rust buster while still warm.
- The two bolts at the rear are 12mm, the two bolts at the front are 13mm and the four in the middle are 10mm. The bolts to the y-pipe are 14mm.
- I never noticed till now that the motor is offset to the passenger side. The instructions recommend cutting off the extra threads on the rear-inside bolt for the passenger side strut-top. I'd recommend doing it before putting the header on. There's only about 1/4" clearance once the header is on.
- The instructions recommend removing the starter but I worked around it no problem.
- When bolting it back to the y-pipe, I recommend running up the top bolts by hand first, since they're harder to get to. Then you just have to tighten the bottom ones with tools.
The truck did feel perkier on the first drive but the real test will come when I do some towing. My car/trailer package weighs about 4,300lbs.
Just got around to putting mine on yesterday. Mine's 2wd so no real challenge!
I started right after driving, while it was still hot (I've had better luck that way)
- Disconnected the battery, took the heat shields off and sprayed the bolts with rust buster while still warm.
- The two bolts at the rear are 12mm, the two bolts at the front are 13mm and the four in the middle are 10mm. The bolts to the y-pipe are 14mm.
- I never noticed till now that the motor is offset to the passenger side. The instructions recommend cutting off the extra threads on the rear-inside bolt for the passenger side strut-top. I'd recommend doing it before putting the header on. There's only about 1/4" clearance once the header is on.
- The instructions recommend removing the starter but I worked around it no problem.
- When bolting it back to the y-pipe, I recommend running up the top bolts by hand first, since they're harder to get to. Then you just have to tighten the bottom ones with tools.
The truck did feel perkier on the first drive but the real test will come when I do some towing. My car/trailer package weighs about 4,300lbs.
I started right after driving, while it was still hot (I've had better luck that way)
- Disconnected the battery, took the heat shields off and sprayed the bolts with rust buster while still warm.
- The two bolts at the rear are 12mm, the two bolts at the front are 13mm and the four in the middle are 10mm. The bolts to the y-pipe are 14mm.
- I never noticed till now that the motor is offset to the passenger side. The instructions recommend cutting off the extra threads on the rear-inside bolt for the passenger side strut-top. I'd recommend doing it before putting the header on. There's only about 1/4" clearance once the header is on.
- The instructions recommend removing the starter but I worked around it no problem.
- When bolting it back to the y-pipe, I recommend running up the top bolts by hand first, since they're harder to get to. Then you just have to tighten the bottom ones with tools.
The truck did feel perkier on the first drive but the real test will come when I do some towing. My car/trailer package weighs about 4,300lbs.
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 170
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Totally waiting to see pics on install. I want these for my 4x4 but if it's gonna be a huge pain, I may go for the E-fan this year anyways. I have troubles pulling my 27' travel trailer through the "hills" towards the east coast when we go camping. Gets a little warm. Actually had to swap out plugs last trip only towing a 3000# boat.
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 453
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From: Orange County, CA
Totally waiting to see pics on install. I want these for my 4x4 but if it's gonna be a huge pain, I may go for the E-fan this year anyways. I have troubles pulling my 27' travel trailer through the "hills" towards the east coast when we go camping. Gets a little warm. Actually had to swap out plugs last trip only towing a 3000# boat.