Well fellas, I gave up trying to do my struts and hub bearings myself.

After 2 weeks of on and off working on my front end (and cracking bolts loose) I haven't been able to crack the bottom strut bolts loose, or get the hub bearings knocked out... all because some A$$hat @ Chrysler decided that Anti-seize was to high of a cost to justify.

i already bought the struts and the timken hub-bearing; now I am just hoping someone with the right tools can get it done in less than 3- really expensive hours

I tried pb blaster, propane-heat, acetone/powersteering fluid mix, air chisel- nothing really made a difference.

busted 3 ratchets and 2 sockets...

that much rust on a 5 year old truck is less than acceptable.

when i am done with the front end... if it still rides like crap or gives me issues... I may be done with it.

 

Don't blame you, to be honest the front end in these trucks should have been recalled, 100% junk for 20-30k price tag new, I won't give up on mine just yet. I own it and am gonna drive it into the ground.

 

I still owe on mine though I should have it paid off by the end of the year. I plan to drive it till it dies. This will be the last dodge I ever own.

 

This wont be my last dodge, I have heard from a few people that once you get the front ends figured out they are great trucks, and I love the size of it and the power that comes with it.

The only thing I have found comparable is a early 2000 chevy 1500 about same size and function

I know the DCX years were not good to dodge, I am giving them a break. I just wish that the Dakota hadn't been the red-headed step child that Diamler decided to whip.

 

When the moisture gets into the "through tube" on the bushings, it starts to rust, and as both it and the bolt continue to rust for a few years, they rust together - the rust also permeates the rubber & all this means that you won't get them out using conventional methods. Rather than paying shop labor rates, you might find it cheaper to buy a lower control arm as well as the 2 control arm cam bolts and the lower strut bolt for each side. The new control arms will come with all 3 new bushings and a ball joint, then you can just cut the old stuff out and bolt in the new (see my post on doing all this). Whatever garage you take it to, will most likely quote you a price that includes those complete arms (with their mark-up) as well as the labor to cut the old ones out and then re-install everything. It won't be a cheap quote.

 

I don't think it is possible for rust to penetrate rubber...but I am just an engineer

I asked the guy at the shop to try and get them loose I also told him not to work on it for more than an hour (my impact and torch are nothing compared to what he has) If he can't get it... I am just going to go ahead and cut them out and replace them with the bushings that you can buy @ Napa for 28 a piece.

 

You can cut your lower control arm bolts fairly easy with a grinder and 4-1/2" disc if you're careful and save the arms. Frenix went with a larger diameter disk I believe. The main bushings can be replaced but Chrysler doesn't have a part number for the lower strut bushing. Someone claims to have found a part number that will work, but you will have to search the older posts for it.

If you go with new arms which is the quickest and easiest way, get them from Rock Auto. The dealer quoted me $500 per A-arm, and $400 my cost!! I ended up getting them through Rock Auto at a better price than anyone else had to offer. I think it was $280 a piece. Not bad really if you consider you get a complete arm with bushings and Moog ball joint (non-greasable though).

 

My mechanic had no trouble doing my truck a yr ago replacing the hub, 5yrs old, and we use tons of salt here, stuff rusts like no tomorrow, he also had no issue removing my Struts last week, other then a broken sway-bar link because of the rust.
I paid $716 Canadian to have, Oil Change, Struts Replaced, Leveling kit installed, and a Sway-bar link replaced. Im glad I took mine to the Mechanic instead of trying myself.

Ive used a 24" Breaker bar on everything to get it removed/started because of the rust. Once its free, all is good.

 

I also am an engineer and rust can penetrate rubber. If it's only on the surface, you won't see that happen, but under pressure, depending on the porosity of rubber, it can enter. One it does enter the pores, it has a foot hold that won't break. Don't forget that iron oxide expands to many times the size of the original piece or iron causing great pressures - that's a big reason why you see pieces of bridges and buildings falling away from rusted re-bar.

 

My truck is working great, maybe you should have just bought the Dakota disguised as a Mitsubishi. I replaced my front end, but only because I wanted to before it went.

I broke my power steering pump...but I was doing doughnuts

Never had any engine issues, and god knows I don't baby the truck

Plenty of oil changes and preventive inspections are my secrets.