Rear Drum
#1
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Well earlier this year it seized on me, and found out the master cylinder must have been shot. Replaced that, it was fine but my truck would still shake at high speeds. I plan on replacing my passanger side front rotar too and im hoping this is whats causing a on and off screech, but i want to go back and check if the rear drums still having a hard time.
Main question is can the drums issues be due to the hardware, last time i lifted it i would step on gas and that tire would barly move, but the passanger rear would move fine... we lubed it up and it was fine for the time being (i know a quick fix but i was broke)
Are there any tutorials that someone can point out for replacing the hardware inside the drum?
thanks
Main question is can the drums issues be due to the hardware, last time i lifted it i would step on gas and that tire would barly move, but the passanger rear would move fine... we lubed it up and it was fine for the time being (i know a quick fix but i was broke)
Are there any tutorials that someone can point out for replacing the hardware inside the drum?
thanks
#2
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well earlier this year it seized on me, and found out the master cylinder must have been shot. Replaced that, it was fine but my truck would still shake at high speeds. I plan on replacing my passanger side front rotar too and im hoping this is whats causing a on and off screech, but i want to go back and check if the rear drums still having a hard time.
Main question is can the drums issues be due to the hardware, last time i lifted it i would step on gas and that tire would barly move, but the passanger rear would move fine... we lubed it up and it was fine for the time being (i know a quick fix but i was broke)
Are there any tutorials that someone can point out for replacing the hardware inside the drum?
thanks
Main question is can the drums issues be due to the hardware, last time i lifted it i would step on gas and that tire would barly move, but the passanger rear would move fine... we lubed it up and it was fine for the time being (i know a quick fix but i was broke)
Are there any tutorials that someone can point out for replacing the hardware inside the drum?
thanks
When I work on rear brakes, I do one side at a time and I have the other drum off with everything intact so I can see where everything goes when I go to put it all back together. A Haynes or Chiltons manual will be a big help also. I also would recommend doing both sides at the same time.
Last edited by jkeaton; 09-29-2012 at 08:26 AM.
#3
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When it comes to brakes what you do to one side you should also do to the other. You also need to make sure that the parking brake hardware is in good shap and working properly. This would include the cable I have seen just one side hang up before. I am with Keaton not sure what the front rotor point was but the same applies I would replace both and never use old pads on new rotors. Sqweeks can also come from shims and retainer springs it is always best to replace them also. Be sure to lube slide pins with the proper grease to ensure the boots arnt damaged. I could go on for another 10 min on brake sqweeks but those are the top culprits.