Back to clutch fan for now
#1
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Sandy, UT. (SLC Suburbs)
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Back to clutch fan for now
So my e-fan died this week, saw the needle go higher than I've ever seen one go before, including others on the forums. It was literally a needle width away from the upper thin black line. I thought the fan was just not compensating for the load I was giving it at the time, but I kicked on the heater full blast and it brought it to 3 needle widths from the middle so I guessed the controller or fan died.
I'm a little worried about those valve seats after an overheat like that. Luckily it wasn't hot enough to blow any fluid out of anywhere though.
Spent a few minutes with my multimeter and tested the fan directly to the battery, come to find out it was the fan itself that was dead. My next step will probably be the mark8 fan.
On another note, I'm going to start working on my motor swap soon and I will be draining the r-134a, does anyone know how much a shop would charge to drain it?
I'm a little worried about those valve seats after an overheat like that. Luckily it wasn't hot enough to blow any fluid out of anywhere though.
Spent a few minutes with my multimeter and tested the fan directly to the battery, come to find out it was the fan itself that was dead. My next step will probably be the mark8 fan.
On another note, I'm going to start working on my motor swap soon and I will be draining the r-134a, does anyone know how much a shop would charge to drain it?
#2
#3
When you're looking for a Mark 8 fan, I'd recommend looking for the 2 speed version (or get the 2 speed Taurus fan). This will give you a lot of choice as to how to implement a controller. With 2 speeds, you can use a relay controller (if you connect to the air conditioning on signal for hi-speed, you'd need some diode protection, and to save your relay contacts, you'd need to add a few arc-suppression components) to ramp up the fan speed to help with outside air temp and hauling load. Also with 2 speeds, you could use a PWM controller such as the SPAL by connecting the controller to the fan Lo speed (this draws less than 30 amps continuously), or you can use a heavier PWM controller like the Painless version that can carry a heavy electrical load and connect it to the hi-speed wire (which ever way you go here, the other wire is left disconnected).