I posted a few months back about my truck stalling randomly but very often. We replaced the spark plugs and this solved the issue for 2 days, the stalling came back and now the truck bucks. The revs jump very quickly from 1500-2500 down to 500 and back in a second. The engine is also idling very low around 500 rpm. On the highway at 60 mph it revs around 3000 rpm and is constantly engaged (never seems to relax). My brothers a mechanic and ran some codes and came up with 300, 315(crank pos. not learned), 339 (crank inter. circuit), 1149, and 1148. Codes also for mass airflow and too lean. He is in the process of swapping around a new coil to see if theres a bad one in the bunch.(Dodgecares posted a write-up saying to do so with the original spark plug issue). This has been going on for months now and he has checked just about every sensor and wire. I am getting fed up and i know he is too. The only mod on the truck is a K&N CAI. Anyone have an idea here? thanks alot

 

I assume he has check the Crank Sensor? Thats the only thing I can think of why it wouldnt learn the Crank Position.

 

yes he replaced it already

 

BTW the trucks an 08 Laramie 4.7 HO....could this be IAC?

 

have you tried swapping the MAF yet and also checking your O2 sensors?
I would replace coils, replace maf and replace the o2 sensors post cat.
As for the bucking, check the U-Joints on your driveshaft for cup bearing weardown.

 

Yeah, try the Idle Air Control. Also, I'm not too sure if your truck has a Throttle Position Sensor, but check that too

 

Hi Everyone,
I am ArtingerB's greasemonkey brother. I appreciate everyones help on the few threads he's opened up, this has definitely been a problematic truck so far, with lots of time invested already. I felt this was a better way to let everyone know what was going on with better detail, as opposed him being the middleman. First off, the engine is a 4.7 dual spark flex fuel. No MAF, no Idle air as far as I can tell. The problem started after I had replaced the intake side plugs (every 35k per dodge) using Bosch Supers, written in the wrong color, which I got through WorldPac as an approved equivalent and not from Dodge, which they were not. After another set of new plugs from Dodge, with a new crank sensor and cam sensor added before the plugs, the car ran much better. Before I could get it to run for about 15 minutes and it would just cut out randomly, sometimes up to a half hour. When it would stall, it would fall on its face, no throttle response at all. I also replaced both ASD (auto shut down) relays and fuel pump relay was swapped with an equal relay to no avail. Both cam and crank sensors are genuine Mopar. So ArtyB takes the car, starts to stall again. I get it back a few days ago with the codes he posted above. The stalling problem is much worse this time around in my opinion, so its either getting progressively worse or its another issue. Now the car has a solid miss for about a half second, so he's losing a few cylinders. Its a violent shutdown, like theres a loss in communication for a split second and it wakes back up. Ive had a mobile diagnostic tech come look and he was baffled, spent about 3 hours on it and said he thought it looks like a PCM but he can't be sure. I unplugged the MAP sensor to see if it would run on fixed values when it throw the CEL, but it still shudders and shakes. I have not graphed O2 long term yet, when checking at idle and revving they looked fine. Fuel pressure is fine and doesn't drop when stalling. When the vehicle does stall, I do not get the red immobilizer light in the cluster. The stalling is indifferent between his 2 keys. Right now I am in the process of swapping a new coil around like the TSB stated. One thing I have noticed about the difference in stalling was the before the spark plug replacement the car would only restart when cycling the key to off and restarting. If you went to just restart it would crank no start. When restarted the car ran normally until falling on its face. Now the truck restarts with no issues when just attempting to restart without cycling, but it does die shaking. So to refresh everyones minds;
Vehicle has the 4.7 flex fuel dual spark engine.
Replaced: Genuine cam and crank sensor, both on passenger bank. Genuine plugs. Drivers bank and cyl 1 and 2 of passenger all check out with coil so far. ASD relays, fuel pump relays all genuine. Wiring checked from passenger side cam sensor to PCM, voltage is constant through the stall. Vehicle is losing spark, still have fuel pulse. Fuel pressure is good.
With my scan tool I have performed: Throttle body adaptation, engine and trans adaptations cleared.

I appreciate the help again, hope someone can point me in a new direction.

 

Yeah my next suggestion was to check the pcm, but seems like you already have that covered.
This may be the simplest and most basic thing you could check for that might be causing these problems, but have you checked to make sure everything is grounded properly?

 

dumb question, did you try swapping out the battery, you maybe having voltage issues with the connections,

 

Swapping the coils today didnt do anything. On cold start today, it started and stalled within 5 secs twice, and then ran for a few minutes on the 3rd re start. Im hearing it pop out of the intake now since Im looking at the throttle body as it stalls. I see it trying to correct itself by opening more while stalling. Im wondering if the throttle body is starting to crap out? Im hesitant to replace all coils as well in case more than one is failing, especially at my price (25 each) 200 guess is not worth it.

Grounds are fine, and the battery has passed my Snap On DTAC tester with no problems. Thanks again so far guys.