Has anyone had to replace the rear mainseal on a v-6. I think mine is leaking, I see some motor oil back there. It wasnt there when I bought the truck.

 

I dont have experience with this. Might want to consult the factory manuals or a haynes manual.

 

I haven't, nor have I heard of anyone here needing to.

Is it causing you to see a difference at the dipstick? If not, and it was me, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

first off if you havent already, wipe all or as much oil as you can immediately, then drive for a day and check again to see how bad the leak is.

but before that how bad is the leak? this is not an easy job and it also depends how mechanically inclined you are of course. I have a little experience but its really not easy. If its a small leak, i suggest two items
1) atp at-205 ~$10 at napa or amazon
2) bars leak rear main seal repair ~15ish autozone or wherever

so i used this stuff in my last truck( v6 frontier) but my leak was to major to use. The bars leak actually sealed up my leak for a good 2 months, but i really had to replace the seal, long story short the truck was too old to be worth fixing so now i have this dakota

To change it yourself, youll need something to hoist the engine when you separate it from the tranny then replace the seal like you would any other such as diff gasket or valve cover gaskets. But this is no easy task and expensive at shops.

best of luck to you and try #2 first if the leak is small i swear by it, as it kept my frontier going for an extra 20k miles! both do a very good job at somehow expanding the valve cover gaskets as well.

also could you try and take a pic? now that i think about it it could be from elsewhere when wind blows by from driving, unless you are absolutely sure it is the rear main seal.

 

Depending on how long you want to keep the engine, you may not want to use the additive solutions, bars leak might seal galleries that need to be open - it doesn't discriminate. Personally, I stay away from the "pour it in" solutions and go for the real fix. Download the manual offered on this forum, find the RMS description, removal & installation procedures in the engine chapter and see if you feel you can do it. If you need a garage to do it for you, get a couple of quotes and then see if you feel you can afford it - it won't be cheap.

 

$6.00 seal 10hrs labor

 

its your choice regardless, i just merely made a suggestion, for which both only target rubber compounds, and engines aren't complex enough to need any extra openings if im not mistaken? i never said solution but if the leak is small i believe it will help. i don't like all additives but these 2 are the only i've seen work. But yes Alfons is right, manual will be a major part in aiding you to fix

 

ok I will start by saying,it only has 65,000 miles. its a very small leak, I noticed it when I did the oil change. I am hoping it is covered by my aftermarket bumper to bumper warranty.

 

Good luck with that. My experience with aftermarket warranties is they spend more time and money trying to get out of fixing anything instead of just paying for a repair, even if it is covered.

 

Some of the warranty providers are getting better and will actually do what you've paid them for. My feeling is that you need to find a garage that will give you the correct diagnosis and be willing to work with that warranty company. I think most aftermarket warranties allow for a maximum dollar value per claim, and some won't cover seals, so you should look over the warranty statement to see what you can get out of them.

Before getting too carried away on the RMS failure diagnosis, I'd follow the advise given earlier - clean off ALL the oil at the back of the engine and then see exactly where it's coming from. It could be something as simple as a valve cover gasket leaking slightly at the back.

The RMS can be removed and installed with a special tool, but to get to it, you need to remove the transmission, flywheel, etc. The description is in Chapter 9 of the manual.