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So there is a captive nut at the top? Or is it a hex for an allen?
If I decide to cut the head off and get another bolt, what size exactly should I buy? Instead of drilling out to 1/2 can't I just replace with like?
Thanks for the help.
Read #7 in this thread. Already been stated, these are dealer only parts. They are called "isolators" but the are just body mounts. You dont want to go screwing around with half a$$ bolts holding the front end of your truck to the frame. Replace it with the same parts.
Thanks. I found on here that clamp that people have used successfully. I found one at Lowes so I will try picking that up and giving it a shot. I am going to shoot some pb blaster on that baby for the next week.
Thanks. I found on here that clamp that people have used successfully. I found one at Lowes so I will try picking that up and giving it a shot. I am going to shoot some pb blaster on that baby for the next week.
Lowes normally does not stock anything better than grade 5 bolts for SAE and metric strength 8.8. Those, in my opinion are NOT strong enough to hold the front of your truck body to the frame. If you are able to re-use the isolator (captive) nut, then you should get a Metric 12 mm Strength 10.9 - I'm not sure what the thread pitch is, but take the nut with you and a good fastener shop will fit you with the right one. Also measure the length you need. If you choose to use SAE, remember that you'll need to drill out the threads in that nut with a 1/2" bit, then get (for each side) one Grade 8 bolt, 2 grade 8 washers (one for the top and one for the bottom since you normally won't find flanged bolts in stock anywhere), 2 grade 8 nuts (one to tighten things together and the other as a jamb nut on top to keep things from vibrating loose). If you go this route, make sure the bolt is long enough to go through that nut you drilled out, enough to get the washer and 2 nuts on.
For a couple of dollars difference between standard construction hardware and good fasteners, don't put yourself in harms way.
Lowes normally does not stock anything better than grade 5 bolts for SAE and metric strength 8.8. Those, in my opinion are NOT strong enough to hold the front of your truck body to the frame. If you are able to re-use the isolator (captive) nut, then you should get a Metric 12 mm Strength 10.9 - I'm not sure what the thread pitch is, but take the nut with you and a good fastener shop will fit you with the right one. Also measure the length you need. If you choose to use SAE, remember that you'll need to drill out the threads in that nut with a 1/2" bit, then get (for each side) one Grade 8 bolt, 2 grade 8 washers (one for the top and one for the bottom since you normally won't find flanged bolts in stock anywhere), 2 grade 8 nuts (one to tighten things together and the other as a jamb nut on top to keep things from vibrating loose). If you go this route, make sure the bolt is long enough to go through that nut you drilled out, enough to get the washer and 2 nuts on.
For a couple of dollars difference between standard construction hardware and good fasteners, don't put yourself in harms way.
I am going to try and remove the old bolt and reuse. If I can't get it removed I will purchase a dealer part...