2007 dakota

Hi guys, back at work in the shop this thing is driving me crazy.

I loosened the screws (all 4) but they seem to just be turning and not coming out. Im talking about the 2 big ones that are vertical (body mount screws?)

Is there a nut on top of there somewhere? I can't feel one up there.

Thanks.

 

Yup! On top of the frame, it's kind of a half bushing/ half nut. It's a tough customer. Search the threads for tow hook installs, there are a few how-to's there.

 

16th post down is what I had to do to get em loose...

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...hts-oh-my.html

 

Look at the top end of each bolt - you should see a captive nut in the body bushing. These nuts are notorious for seizing. I added a lift to my truck, so I used the supplied 1/2 inch, grade 8 bolts. I cut the heads off those 2 long bolts, lifted them out and took out the rest of the bolt from that nut (you need that nut assembly to hold down the mount bushing). Then I drilled out the 12 mm hole to 1/2 inch, put in the new bolt and added a normal grade 8 nut on top (add a jamb nut to keep it from coming loose). Others have tried other ways, but when that nut rusts onto the bolt, cutting is often the only way to remove things.

 

Yeah at this point the top disc looking thing just spins along with the bolt.

 

I had to fire a Self-Taping Screw thru the top Plate of the body mount down into the steel mount. I then slowly used a 2' Breaker bar to get them out, stripped one so I replaced the Upper Bushing and Bolt (not cheap)

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...h-guard-3.html

Scroll down some on the page, Youll see what I had to do to get mine off.

 

X2. I got lucky on one side, the bolt snapped off. On the other side, I drilled a hole in the top bushing and inserted a ss screw to keep it from turning. Ruined them both. They are like $60 each and dealer only as well. Good luck!

This is what it looks like:

 

If you can salvage that part with the built-in-nut and drill out the hole to 1/2", grade 8 bolts with nuts and washers are a lot cheaper than buying that whole bushing section from the dealer. If you aren't adding a body lift, get the bolts about 2" longer than the originals, this gives you the length to have the bolt protrude through the upper bushing/washer and to add the nuts - if you don't use a lock-nut, use some "blue" lock-tight or a jamb nut.

 

Awesome Ideas!

I will try the clamp one first, if that doesn't produce results then on to drilling the SOB out of there.

Thanks!

 

So there is a captive nut at the top? Or is it a hex for an allen?

If I decide to cut the head off and get another bolt, what size exactly should I buy? Instead of drilling out to 1/2 can't I just replace with like?

Thanks for the help.