RUST! Under carpet. (un)Fun project coming up...
Pull the box liner, Mine had major rust under it when I removed it. No chance in hell im ever putting on or leaving one in haha
The rust isn't too bad in this case, but you can see that it has started to develop around some body seams - this needs to be stopped otherwise it'll continue and rust through. Normal primers and paints won't work, they'll just cover up the surface leaving the active rust beneath. Before you start repairing the area, find the leak and then dry the carpet thoroughly. To find the leak, you might need to use a garden hose around potential areas (The window gasket does have an issue, I have a slight leak on the passengers side and I've read about a lot of others in the same boat).
When you get to the repair stage, scrape off all the loose stuff and then go over it with a wire brush and then vacuum up all the stuff. Next, you need something that will pacify the rust and there are a number of products that will do this. If the rust doesn't go into the seam, then any "rust paint", including Rustolium will work, but if it has started to penetrate, you'll need something that contains more pacifier - look for some rust converter products that will leave a paintable surface when dry and then cover that with a rust paint and then get a can of spray "rock guard" and cover that area as a complete sealer. Check underneath to see if the rust has gone through that seam as well and if it has, repeat the process there.
I've used the following really good rust products, but they are expensive and you may not need something like any of them:
When you get to the repair stage, scrape off all the loose stuff and then go over it with a wire brush and then vacuum up all the stuff. Next, you need something that will pacify the rust and there are a number of products that will do this. If the rust doesn't go into the seam, then any "rust paint", including Rustolium will work, but if it has started to penetrate, you'll need something that contains more pacifier - look for some rust converter products that will leave a paintable surface when dry and then cover that with a rust paint and then get a can of spray "rock guard" and cover that area as a complete sealer. Check underneath to see if the rust has gone through that seam as well and if it has, repeat the process there.
I've used the following really good rust products, but they are expensive and you may not need something like any of them:
- POR-15. This stands for Paint Over Rust formulation 15. 2 coats work really well and if you use this, follow the directions - essentially it's cleaning the loose stuff off, then apply 2 coats of this product. The surface is VERY hard, and when you've done this, it's all you'll need to do.
- Rust-Bullet: Similar to POR-15, but easier to use in a spray gun.
interesting development.
So it turns out that the culprit of the water entering the cab was a loose, misaligned driver door.
The bottom of the door was hitting and scratching the bottom of the door frame. This means the whole door was misaligned and loose, thereby letting water from the top enter and drain down to under the carpet from the door.
Bought new pins and hardware and re-aligned the door.
That SHOULD do the trick.
I will post pictures of the finished floor within the next 2 days.
So it turns out that the culprit of the water entering the cab was a loose, misaligned driver door.
The bottom of the door was hitting and scratching the bottom of the door frame. This means the whole door was misaligned and loose, thereby letting water from the top enter and drain down to under the carpet from the door.
Bought new pins and hardware and re-aligned the door.
That SHOULD do the trick.
I will post pictures of the finished floor within the next 2 days.
The door was actually scuffing along the bottom frame and I saw the marks. It wasn't wiggly or anything.


