On my 08 dak I have a 2.5 inch leveling kit on the front and the front end is holding up just fine, but fine isn't good enough for me.... lol

I just want to beef it up and cover all the issues of lifting the front of a 4wd dak.

My plan is pretty simple,
1) Install heim joint conversion (projectdirtfab) kit
2) High angel cv joints (after research the 930 Hi angle cv-joint, by Kartek)
3) High angle upper control arms. (jackmyride)
4) custom dif drop if necessary

I'm looking to do this all relatively cheap. but with quality parts.

If there is anything I'm forgetting please let me know, or if there is sumthing I have forgotten or other part suggestions please chime in.

 

I just had to replace both upper control arms as they were both blown from my 2" lift. It really puts them at a terrible angle. Do they sell a threaded extension to bring the angle back to normal after a lift?

 

Define: thread extension

 

I meant the threaded bottom of the ball joint. Is there such a thing? To decrease the angle created adding the 2" level kit.

 

You think our front ends are weak now! Try adding a threaded rod in bending . . .

Not Pretty!

 

You can't change the angle of the upper by itself or you'll run into camber issues. And you'll need to get a custom flange made to adapt 934 joints to slide into your diff

 

Is it the actual angle of the arm or the relationship of the upper arm pivot points and the upper ball joint?
Could you build an upper arm with a bend in it so the outer end of the arm sat flat and the ball joint was at a happy angle. The relationship between the arm pivot and joint location would stay the same and the arm length would stay the same.
The arc of the arm during suspension travel should then remain stock just better ball joint angle?

 

It's the angle of the arms pivots. The arm itself could be a squiggly line as long as you draw a straight line from the pivot bolts to the ball joint. The inner pivots can be wherever you want. Alot of desert guys just weld in their own pivots anyway. Imagine drawing a straight line from the inner pivot bolts to the pivot part of the ball joint (the actual ball is the pivot, not the threads) and then drawing a line for the bottom arm and the same for the tie rod.

If your looking on paper. The lines for the lower arm and tie Rod must stay parrelell =

The upper doesn't nessacarilly have to be parrelell to the lower but it just can't travel some crazy arc compared to the rest of the suspension or the upper arm will "fold" sooner which is how we get camber, whether negative or positive.

You can set camber to 0 or -1 at ride height without a problem but every little bump in the road will make your tires bow in or out until the truck levels out.

Yes you can make an upper with a level ball joint so the angle is the same but doesn't bind the joint during articulation. Actually I already made some but with uniballs instead of ball joints