You just said in an earlier post you have been driving the truck and it was running well. What gives?

 

the engine was still shot, but it still ran and i drove it probably 100km.
brake line went
but i was still trying to get my engine lined up, now im getting it put in wednesday.

 

I'm not aware of any engine differences (sensors included) between the 06 and 07, and I'm assuming that you're keeping your old engine bay wiring harness and PCM, so the swap should be pretty easy except for the labor cost of doing it.

A maintenance plan for any vehicle is usually a really good idea, it prolongs the vehicle life and gives you an opportunity to learn a few things about "what's what". This should give you some additional confidence in doing more of your own repairs as they come up.

When you change the water pump on the new engine, do a complete flush of the cooling system. When you fill it with new coolant, watch the temp for the next while to make sure it doesn't overheat - air locks in the block can stop the water from flowing properly and cause an overheat. If you do see the temp rising past where you're comfortable with it, let it cool down and then, when you have back home, you'll need to "burp" it to remove any air bubbles.

I would suggest keeping the old engine if you have the room to do so. You'll have a source of spare parts and whatever is left, you can make a few bucks from a scrap metal dealer - cast iron, aluminum, and quality steel can fetch you some money. When you have the time, you can remove the head to see what the problem was with that cylinder - this will also give you more confidence and understanding.

 

alright......I had the truck dropped off for engine swap last wed.....got it back friday...went on the highway...going 100-110KM/PH....and the engine misfires and drops speed and jumps/shakes back and forth, pulled off to shoulder, coudlnt get it to accumulate speed withought jumping back and forth..let it cool down and got goin again...
when its warmed up an hits sixty it starts jumping again...

before i had the engine swapped it wasnt even running that bad to be honest.. when i hit 40, you would feel a shaking then when it got a few km/ph past it would stop then it would shake a bit at sixty then stop again,
now it is still doing the same thing with the new engine.
i brought it back on friday and they said it might be the crankshaft sensor and theyd do it on monday, along with my breaks, i mentioned i made an appointment at dodge a month ago and that was coming up on tuesday, tomorrow,
anyway, today , monday, they said the codes are gone that were there friday and they say its electrical issues, and to bring it to dodge....

is it possible this is a electrical issue now?!?!

the ENGINE with hood up doesnt shake and sound like it did before the swap, but the shaking while driving the truckoccurs like it did on the original engine when i hit the same speeds..

so sad....just spent $3000.....hopefully dodge can figure it out tomorrow...

 

It pains me to hear of another garage that just wants to drop a problem once they've been paid and have all responsibility & liabilities removed from them. If it's an electrical problem (and it certainly could be), the garage was responsible in disconnecting the old engine and connecting the new one, so if something isn't connected properly, they should go back to check their own work - the codes they read from the computer should have told them where to look. If the codes were there and now they aren't, the PCM (truck computer) had it's power removed (they probably disconnected the battery) and the codes got cleared, but if the problem is still there, the codes will come back - all they need to do is to take the truck over 60 to get it to misfire again. What they want you to do is to drive the truck away and not bring it back. I know that you need the truck for your work and don't want to keep paying garages more & more - I would tell this garage that if you need to get another garage (like the dealership) to fix a problem that they apparently created, you will take them to court to recover repair costs and time lost. I'd have the dealership give a detailed report on exactly what the problem was & visit a lawyer for a free consultation.

 

ALFONS
thank you for all the time you have put into replying to my posts and querys.

So i finally pulled some codes my self on the dash

i got EGR problems and Ignition Coil dee sec circ issue
p0403
p0406 volt to high low
p2311

i called and told them i pulled the codes my self and asked if it could be the EGR solenoid or vacuume or the ignition coil .
they told me they checked all those things and thats not it , and apparently its throwing out faulty codes...and its got to be something electrical.......
so ...if this is true
i dont want to go into dodge tomorrow and they read the codes and just say to replace the EGR withougth checking voltage seeing if its actually broken and charging me parts and labor...
the mechanic said they have a different computer than them..
anyhow..
those are the codes i pulled...
I will keep all that in mind alfons,
all my original wiring was re-used they said,, and aparently my engine came from a dodge 1500, a van or something the mechanic told me...
when i was buying it from the auto parts place they told me it was an 06 dakota i was more then sure...oh well.. i dont know ..the shop said they had to make some adjustments...

 

Sounds like a sketchy shop and mechanic to me.

 

In my opinion, a 4.7 should not need any "adjustments" to go from a RAM to a Dakota or anything else. I'm sure there are some fittings/brackets/hoses/etc that would be different from model to model, but those things can easily be taken from the original and moved to the one you're swapping in - those aren't "adjustments", and everything else should be the same.

A bad EGR will make the engine run bad, and your replacement engine could have come with it bad, but the garage should have been able to take it for a drive and determine they had a problem, read the codes, and change the EGR (they could have taken the one from your original engine) - did they tell you what they did to "check the EGR"?. In my opinion, a bad EGR is not repairable & should be changed - they aren't cheap (I changed mine). Once the EGR is changed, you can clear the codes and see what's left - I had several codes showing, with the EGR being the most likely, changed the unit, cleared the codes, and had nothing left, the engine ran great.

Your old EGR could still be good and you could swap that in and see how things work.

 

ALFONS
the engine is still shuttering at 45km/ph and 60-65 km/ph like it did before
and now whats new is when it heats up it BUCKS after going up a hill or hard acceleration or high speed
i can avoid it by driving without inducing heavy acceleration
but the shuttering - a mild shake that can be felt through the pedal as well as just in the vehicle its self was occurring before the engine swap.
so unless the EGR is causing it to buck..
im guessing its a sensor or electrical as well..
i told the shop i wanted the engine and to put it in my truck
they said they tossed it out back
i want to remove the water pump as i just put a new one on the old engine, and i should keep all the coil packs and probably some other stuff.

 

hey hey hey
so I just spoke to the original owner, he told me he had crankshaft or camshaft sensors, ( he cant remember which ) go like 3 times a year he said, he said they went like lightbulbs. and that would cause the truck to buck , he said that that was a safety feature that happens so the motor doesn't blow

does this sound like a possibility to you alfons?!?1? i have it at dodge dealership right now, i don't know what there going to say, but I am thinking about ordering the sensors from rockauto now if this is possible and just swapping them out my self, if this is an easy enough job, and if this sounds like its possible to be the reason for the shuttering and bucking