I answered your PM that had these questions, but in summary, I don't believe that it's the crank or the cam sensors. They aren't as flaky as the previous owner feels. The Hall Effect sensors often work or they don't - usually there's a complete failure and not a malfunction, and since both of these sensors are critical to the running of an engine, a failure in either one would mean that the engine would not start (no timing information to the PCM). You didn't get any fault codes relating to either sensor, but you did get one for the EGR & when these fail, your engine will run very poorly (much like you describe yours running).

Let us know how you made out at the dealership.

 

loose plug and egr not plugged in and loose fuel injection wire is what the dealership found, runs great now, just needs a tune up
apparently burning lots of oil..

got my engine picked up from the shop
this is whats left of it..
should there be more?? did they take stuff? I took off the water pump..
would the engine I purchased have new coils on it and spark plugs? or would all that have been kept from my old engine?

 

You should have looked at it before having them do the work. Do not trust anyone but yourself.

Chances are, you purchased a long-block form engine, which usually doesn't include timing cover and valve covers, but on a used engine it can, but is not guaranteed to include anything else. Long blocks usually don't have timing covers and valve covers either, but with used engines, they often leave them.

So to answer your question, there's no way to tell if they removed and kept anything since used longblock engines are only guaranteed to have rotating assembly and valvetrain. A complete engine on the other hand would have pretty much everything minus wiring harness, and sometimes comes with that too.

 

I would have asked to see the engine they bought to put in it before it was installed. I would also avoid the shop that installed it at all costs. They could not find those simple things the dealer found??? A plug not screwed in all the way? Come on man! If your "new" engine is burning oil, there is a mechanical issue with it (worn rings, etc). Was your engine that dirty when it was in the truck?

 

If I were you, I'd get over to that shop and show them the dealers findings. Rotten SOBs they are.

If you are burning lots of oil with this replacement engine... no tuneup is going to fix that. You either got an engine with toasted piston rings, or oil is getting in the cylinders some other way.

for the record, I offered my engine in a pm, planned on undercutting whatever price you found. it was running great when I pulled it, 76k miles, just due for a tune up. you never responded to that second pm.

but it is what it is.

 

I live in newfoundland Canada..shipping would have made it a lot more expensive then what I payed..
to my knowledge , it was a complete engine. |I am going to get the invoice and talk to the autoparts network I purchased it from.
and the engine I took the pic of, was sitting outside for a week

the dealer mentioned it was burning oil.
when I checked my oil after the swap , I noticed on the dipstick it was over full..maybe the oil that is burning is just the excess oil in there..i heard that if u over fill the oil it will just burn off

 

Overfilling your engine with oil can do damage, depending on how much of an overfill it is. You can end up with various blown seals to mechanical damage if the oil is up too high. If the engine is tight, there should be NO significant oil that gets into the combustion chamber to burn off, so if you're burning oil, your engine isn't tight & I'd be worried about that - I hope you have a warranty of some type with that engine as well as the work that garage did for you. This is beginning to have all the ingredients of a soap opera. If you bought the engine yourself, you may not have much recourse, but if the garage did it, they're liable as long as you have the paperwork to back it all up - it all depends on whether you want to do anything about it.

 

Alfons-
The engine has a warranty on If there is burning oil due to pistons or cracked cylinder ECT..
none of the manifold/exhaust system is covered through warranty - which I am currently testing to identify if that is a issue im having.

the garage who swapped my engine is liable to me for 411$ at the moment. . .(bill from dodge for diagnostics on their mistake

I may just say screw it and never talk to them again or do something by Mail and tell them if they dont send me the payment i will take due action,

i will forward them a copy of their billing for " labor " to me and the dodge dealerships technicians printout..the only thing im worried is that - their reciept to me ( the shop who did the swap ) reads only - LABOUR $XXX.XX AMT
no details.



I havent noticed much oil dissapeering - i have been monitoring it.

 

Manifolds (intake or exhaust) do not cause engines to burn oil. Things like worn sleeves in the cylinders, worn or cracked rings on the pistons, valve stem seals leaking, etc. are causes for engines burning oil. If you're loosing a noticeable amount of oil loss and were told by the dealership that you're burning it, you need to do something about it now rather than later. I would take it back to the place that got the engine for you and invoke the warranty - the longer you wait, the harder it will be to get them to acknowledge the warranty.

 

I have a few questions for you:

How old are you?
Have you owned any vehicles prior to the Dakota?
Are you employed? Married? Kids?
Education level?
Have you purchased a Haynes or chitons manual (which has been suggested numorous times)?

I wish I lived close to you so you and I could spend a weekend together and learn some things about your truck and vehicles in general.

Use this forum to your advantage. Take the advise given and work with it and learn from it. Knowledge that is provided on this forum comes from years and years of do it yourself gained knowledge. Provide feedback to us if you try so something. . Use a common sense approach to everything. Never trust dealers or repair shops first conclusions. Use their diagnosis to troubleshoot and come to your own conclusions. I only use dealer/repair shops when I'm stumped. I will gladly pay for an hours worth of diagnostic time instead of throwing parts at a problem I can't figure out. Most times they are wrong, but at least I get an idea of where they are focusing.

I offer you this coming from 30+ years of working on my own stuff.