High Idle
#11
09-06-2013, 01:13 AM
If its flammable, yes. Starter fluid would be the best. Like Alfons said, don't let the fumes go in the intake. If you have the stock intake back on, that should work. Small spritzs around gaskets and vacuum hoses. If it is leaking, it will pull the fumes in and raise the idle.
A flashlight beam shining though misty particles is another way, then there's the tube to ear trick as well.
I was think about this today, how did you handle the crank case ventilation when you added that intake?
I don't remember, did you replace the idle air control valve or egr recently? My first place I would look is the point where the egr tube runs into the intake manifold and where it comes from the egr, if it was replaced recently, I would also wonder if both gaskets were used, the head side and tube side.
I would also wonder if the IAC is working properly.. It should open the valve when you are at 0 throttle, and close the valve when you touch the throttle. But I don't know if it does this based on MAP readings or throttle position. Which leads me to the next item, the TPS. Throttle position sensor. Those cause all kinds of neat idle and fuel delivery quirks when they are malfunctioning.
A flashlight beam shining though misty particles is another way, then there's the tube to ear trick as well.
I was think about this today, how did you handle the crank case ventilation when you added that intake?
I don't remember, did you replace the idle air control valve or egr recently? My first place I would look is the point where the egr tube runs into the intake manifold and where it comes from the egr, if it was replaced recently, I would also wonder if both gaskets were used, the head side and tube side.
I would also wonder if the IAC is working properly.. It should open the valve when you are at 0 throttle, and close the valve when you touch the throttle. But I don't know if it does this based on MAP readings or throttle position. Which leads me to the next item, the TPS. Throttle position sensor. Those cause all kinds of neat idle and fuel delivery quirks when they are malfunctioning.
#12
09-06-2013, 04:59 PM
If its flammable, yes. Starter fluid would be the best. Like Alfons said, don't let the fumes go in the intake. If you have the stock intake back on, that should work. Small spritzs around gaskets and vacuum hoses. If it is leaking, it will pull the fumes in and raise the idle.
A flashlight beam shining though misty particles is another way, then there's the tube to ear trick as well.
I was think about this today, how did you handle the crank case ventilation when you added that intake?
I don't remember, did you replace the idle air control valve or egr recently? My first place I would look is the point where the egr tube runs into the intake manifold and where it comes from the egr, if it was replaced recently, I would also wonder if both gaskets were used, the head side and tube side.
I would also wonder if the IAC is working properly.. It should open the valve when you are at 0 throttle, and close the valve when you touch the throttle. But I don't know if it does this based on MAP readings or throttle position. Which leads me to the next item, the TPS. Throttle position sensor. Those cause all kinds of neat idle and fuel delivery quirks when they are malfunctioning.
A flashlight beam shining though misty particles is another way, then there's the tube to ear trick as well.
I was think about this today, how did you handle the crank case ventilation when you added that intake?
I don't remember, did you replace the idle air control valve or egr recently? My first place I would look is the point where the egr tube runs into the intake manifold and where it comes from the egr, if it was replaced recently, I would also wonder if both gaskets were used, the head side and tube side.
I would also wonder if the IAC is working properly.. It should open the valve when you are at 0 throttle, and close the valve when you touch the throttle. But I don't know if it does this based on MAP readings or throttle position. Which leads me to the next item, the TPS. Throttle position sensor. Those cause all kinds of neat idle and fuel delivery quirks when they are malfunctioning.
Crank case ventalation? I'm not sure what you're asking there. I took off my air intake, took off the cables, took out the TPS and unplugged the IAC. I took off the one hose to the intake. I took off the three bolts and that's it.
I did put a new IAC in, I never got a CEL for the TPS, but then again my CEL when it does come on, it disappears a day later.
I'm not sure if they were used or not, but they were in the box when I gave it to them to replace
#13
09-07-2013, 04:11 PM
I do have the stock intake, I could do that as well. So I shouldn't use throttle body cleaner?
Crank case ventalation? I'm not sure what you're asking there. I took off my air intake, took off the cables, took out the TPS and unplugged the IAC. I took off the one hose to the intake. I took off the three bolts and that's it.
I did put a new IAC in, I never got a CEL for the TPS, but then again my CEL when it does come on, it disappears a day later.
I'm not sure if they were used or not, but they were in the box when I gave it to them to replace
Crank case ventalation? I'm not sure what you're asking there. I took off my air intake, took off the cables, took out the TPS and unplugged the IAC. I took off the one hose to the intake. I took off the three bolts and that's it.
I did put a new IAC in, I never got a CEL for the TPS, but then again my CEL when it does come on, it disappears a day later.
I'm not sure if they were used or not, but they were in the box when I gave it to them to replace
Have you had the trouble codes read recently? Whether you have a CEL or not, DTCs don't disappear from the PCM quickly unless they're cleared by a diagnostic tool or disconnecting the battery, so it might be be useful to post what's currently stored to give us an idea of what the computer thinks might be a problem.