High Idle
#1
09-01-2013, 08:10 PM
High Idle [SOLVED]
[SOLVED]
I found out that they unplugged a hose that's in front of the EGR, it's a thick about half an inch wide, and a plastic hose goes into it. Put a hose clamp on it and idles perfect now. As I was driving home, CEL came on
p0300
Multiple cylinder Misfire
same thing I had when my EGR went out, but before that
So...maybe it's the coils
So this weekend my debit card has been getting declined. Noticed it Friday evening. So I went to the bank Saturday, said nothing is wrong. I went out to try and buy some intake cleaner, declined. Of course, it's the holidays, so everything is closed. I paid cash, so I got it.
Here is what my throttle body looked like.
I took it off because it juse makes things so much easier. My CEL went off yesterday, had
P0507:
IDLE SPEED PERFORMANCE HIGHER THAN EXPECTED
Just clicked the links, these images are huge so I didn't want to post the whole picture on here
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3786/5l7h.jpg
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/1694/p4po.jpg
http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/6156/60m9.jpg
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1531/tkyj.jpg
http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/418/rv2j.jpg
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/9213/avb6.jpg
Here is the intake I just wanted to check it out
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/3217/fxys.jpg
ALL CLEAN
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/5791/kgus.jpg
http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/5808/i2ih.jpg
http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/8725/vcaz.jpg
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3973/tu5r.jpg
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/5328/q0vz.jpg
I'm uploading a video right now, I'll post it in a little bit of whats going on when I shift gears. Also, TURN DOWN YOUR VOLUME THIS IS NEAR THE ENGINE WHILE RUNNING, COULD BE LOUD
I'm not sure if it's my dual air intake that is making so much noise or is the intake or a hose is leaking. I put the phone near the area I kinda hear a loud sucking sound
I found out that they unplugged a hose that's in front of the EGR, it's a thick about half an inch wide, and a plastic hose goes into it. Put a hose clamp on it and idles perfect now. As I was driving home, CEL came on
p0300
Multiple cylinder Misfire
same thing I had when my EGR went out, but before that
So...maybe it's the coils
So this weekend my debit card has been getting declined. Noticed it Friday evening. So I went to the bank Saturday, said nothing is wrong. I went out to try and buy some intake cleaner, declined. Of course, it's the holidays, so everything is closed. I paid cash, so I got it.
Here is what my throttle body looked like.
I took it off because it juse makes things so much easier. My CEL went off yesterday, had
P0507:
IDLE SPEED PERFORMANCE HIGHER THAN EXPECTED
Just clicked the links, these images are huge so I didn't want to post the whole picture on here
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3786/5l7h.jpg
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/1694/p4po.jpg
http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/6156/60m9.jpg
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1531/tkyj.jpg
http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/418/rv2j.jpg
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/9213/avb6.jpg
Here is the intake I just wanted to check it out
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/3217/fxys.jpg
ALL CLEAN
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/5791/kgus.jpg
http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/5808/i2ih.jpg
http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/8725/vcaz.jpg
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3973/tu5r.jpg
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/5328/q0vz.jpg
I'm uploading a video right now, I'll post it in a little bit of whats going on when I shift gears. Also, TURN DOWN YOUR VOLUME THIS IS NEAR THE ENGINE WHILE RUNNING, COULD BE LOUD
I'm not sure if it's my dual air intake that is making so much noise or is the intake or a hose is leaking. I put the phone near the area I kinda hear a loud sucking sound
Last edited by ouv; 09-07-2013 at 03:38 PM.
#2
09-02-2013, 11:52 AM
When the airbox comes off, it takes the tiny resonators with it. The stock intake is so much quieter.
Do you still have the stock air box? I think you might try putting it back on to see if you can better hear the other sounds. It will be easier to find the leak, if there is one, if the intake noise is gone.
Do you still have the stock air box? I think you might try putting it back on to see if you can better hear the other sounds. It will be easier to find the leak, if there is one, if the intake noise is gone.
#4
09-03-2013, 11:12 AM
That dual air intake is an interesting arrangement, but I can't see that it improves air flow over a single smooth intake pipe.
A vacuum leak can give you an oscillating rpm such as you show in your video. A vacuum gauge is my recommended diagnostic tool to check for things like a leak etc., but to find the leak, might be a bit of a challenge. Even removing the intake suction noise (you can largely remove this with the OEM intake or a long flex tube that has it's end out of the engine bay), I find that you won't hear the leak unless it's very large. I've found that using some of the combustible sprays around gaskets etc. gives you the quickest indication of where the leak is. When you spray over the leak, the rpm changes. If you're interested in trying something like that, you can do a bit of on-line research - just search for "finding an engine vacuum leak". You'll find quite a few methods described, just make sure you understand the consequences and/or short comings of each one, then pick one after you've confirmed that you have a leak.
A vacuum leak can give you an oscillating rpm such as you show in your video. A vacuum gauge is my recommended diagnostic tool to check for things like a leak etc., but to find the leak, might be a bit of a challenge. Even removing the intake suction noise (you can largely remove this with the OEM intake or a long flex tube that has it's end out of the engine bay), I find that you won't hear the leak unless it's very large. I've found that using some of the combustible sprays around gaskets etc. gives you the quickest indication of where the leak is. When you spray over the leak, the rpm changes. If you're interested in trying something like that, you can do a bit of on-line research - just search for "finding an engine vacuum leak". You'll find quite a few methods described, just make sure you understand the consequences and/or short comings of each one, then pick one after you've confirmed that you have a leak.
#5
09-03-2013, 05:58 PM
That dual air intake is an interesting arrangement, but I can't see that it improves air flow over a single smooth intake pipe.
A vacuum leak can give you an oscillating rpm such as you show in your video. A vacuum gauge is my recommended diagnostic tool to check for things like a leak etc., but to find the leak, might be a bit of a challenge. Even removing the intake suction noise (you can largely remove this with the OEM intake or a long flex tube that has it's end out of the engine bay), I find that you won't hear the leak unless it's very large. I've found that using some of the combustible sprays around gaskets etc. gives you the quickest indication of where the leak is. When you spray over the leak, the rpm changes. If you're interested in trying something like that, you can do a bit of on-line research - just search for "finding an engine vacuum leak". You'll find quite a few methods described, just make sure you understand the consequences and/or short comings of each one, then pick one after you've confirmed that you have a leak.
A vacuum leak can give you an oscillating rpm such as you show in your video. A vacuum gauge is my recommended diagnostic tool to check for things like a leak etc., but to find the leak, might be a bit of a challenge. Even removing the intake suction noise (you can largely remove this with the OEM intake or a long flex tube that has it's end out of the engine bay), I find that you won't hear the leak unless it's very large. I've found that using some of the combustible sprays around gaskets etc. gives you the quickest indication of where the leak is. When you spray over the leak, the rpm changes. If you're interested in trying something like that, you can do a bit of on-line research - just search for "finding an engine vacuum leak". You'll find quite a few methods described, just make sure you understand the consequences and/or short comings of each one, then pick one after you've confirmed that you have a leak.
I know about the spray around the bay in a mist to see if there is a leak. I know some other ones while in a dark room, with a bright light in the bay, then spray some over the bay and see the particles be sucked in.
One question:
Does the throttle body to the intake have a gasket? When I cleaned it, there wasn't one. Now every vehicle that I've fixed has had one, but I didn't see any sign of one. Would be weird if it didn't. That'd also make it run weird for sure if it does need one, and doesn't.
#6
09-03-2013, 08:01 PM
Well it looks cool & gives you an opportunity to spend twice as much on filters 
Spraying a mist into the engine bay wouldn't accomplish much, what you do is to spray along the gasket lines & connections that are attached to the vacuum (intake manifold) - you spray this using one of those spray can straws to focus the fluid & when you spray the fluid on the area where you have the vacuum leak, you'll hear the rpm change almost instantly (this is the "particle suck-in" ). Depending on what fluid you choose, be careful around things like your exhaust manifolds or anything else that can get hot or spark, etc.
I haven't checked the manual, but I would be very surprised if there was no gasket or sealant (there are different types of sealant like RTV etc., that can replace a paper gasket) between the throttle body & the intake. Even if there was none originally, I'd put one in to ensure I had a really good seal. You have aluminum on plastic there, so Chrysler might have been trying to save a fraction of a penny by omitting a gasket. If you use the spray technique around the throttle body, make sure you have a long intake tube attached to the TB to make sure the spray doesn't get sucked into the TB intake to make sure you don't get a false reading.
Sometimes, it's easier to remove the intake from the engine and the TB from the intake and redo the gaskets all the way along. Check all your vacuum connections to the manifold looking for loose hoses etc (hose for the power brakes is one to look at). If you use RTV for the gaskets, pull the parts together snug (not tight), let the RTV set & then pull the bolts/nuts tight to their torque spec.
I know about the spray around the bay in a mist to see if there is a leak. I know some other ones while in a dark room, with a bright light in the bay, then spray some over the bay and see the particles be sucked in.
One question:
Does the throttle body to the intake have a gasket? When I cleaned it, there wasn't one. Now every vehicle that I've fixed has had one, but I didn't see any sign of one. Would be weird if it didn't. That'd also make it run weird for sure if it does need one, and doesn't.
Does the throttle body to the intake have a gasket? When I cleaned it, there wasn't one. Now every vehicle that I've fixed has had one, but I didn't see any sign of one. Would be weird if it didn't. That'd also make it run weird for sure if it does need one, and doesn't.
Sometimes, it's easier to remove the intake from the engine and the TB from the intake and redo the gaskets all the way along. Check all your vacuum connections to the manifold looking for loose hoses etc (hose for the power brakes is one to look at). If you use RTV for the gaskets, pull the parts together snug (not tight), let the RTV set & then pull the bolts/nuts tight to their torque spec.
#7
09-03-2013, 10:48 PM
The plastic intakes usually have a rubber o-ring that the throttle body presses against when you tighten it up. It surrounds the inlet on the manifold, pressed in to a small groove. The individual runners on the heads side of the intake, bottom, have an individual oring on each as well, well kinda. They surround each runner and are linked in a line.
Our evap and brake booster uses press on tubing, they can get hard over time and start to not seal very well. A simple hose clamp will solve that, or new tubing of the same inside diameter.I hose clamped all mine when I moved them to the hemi intake, I didn't want to go on a hose search when the clamps I already had would do the trick. But they didn't seal well otherwise.
Before you use gasket sealant, check the price for new orings if you find any damaged or missing. Otherwise they should be fine as long as the mating surface is clean and smooth.
Our evap and brake booster uses press on tubing, they can get hard over time and start to not seal very well. A simple hose clamp will solve that, or new tubing of the same inside diameter.I hose clamped all mine when I moved them to the hemi intake, I didn't want to go on a hose search when the clamps I already had would do the trick. But they didn't seal well otherwise.
Before you use gasket sealant, check the price for new orings if you find any damaged or missing. Otherwise they should be fine as long as the mating surface is clean and smooth.
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#8
09-04-2013, 08:18 AM
The plastic intakes usually have a rubber o-ring that the throttle body presses against when you tighten it up. It surrounds the inlet on the manifold, pressed in to a small groove. The individual runners on the heads side of the intake, bottom, have an individual oring on each as well, well kinda. They surround each runner and are linked in a line.
Our evap and brake booster uses press on tubing, they can get hard over time and start to not seal very well. A simple hose clamp will solve that, or new tubing of the same inside diameter.I hose clamped all mine when I moved them to the hemi intake, I didn't want to go on a hose search when the clamps I already had would do the trick. But they didn't seal well otherwise.
Before you use gasket sealant, check the price for new orings if you find any damaged or missing. Otherwise they should be fine as long as the mating surface is clean and smooth.
Our evap and brake booster uses press on tubing, they can get hard over time and start to not seal very well. A simple hose clamp will solve that, or new tubing of the same inside diameter.I hose clamped all mine when I moved them to the hemi intake, I didn't want to go on a hose search when the clamps I already had would do the trick. But they didn't seal well otherwise.
Before you use gasket sealant, check the price for new orings if you find any damaged or missing. Otherwise they should be fine as long as the mating surface is clean and smooth.
#9
09-04-2013, 08:25 AM
The o-ring behind the TB that the guys are talking about is only $3.99 at napa. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...182_0244858167 It should be there, or the TB wont seal which could cause your idle searching.
#10
09-05-2013, 05:59 PM
The o-ring behind the TB that the guys are talking about is only $3.99 at napa. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...182_0244858167 It should be there, or the TB wont seal which could cause your idle searching.