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front end still shaking

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  #41  
Old 09-30-2013, 11:57 AM
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Resurface the rear drums. It makes no sense but got rid of the shake for me.
 
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sdsdsd
Resurface the rear drums. It makes no sense but got rid of the shake for me.
I just quit drinking - that stopped my shaking
 
  #43  
Old 09-30-2013, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Alfons
I just quit drinking - that stopped my shaking
Hmmm..my shaking got worse when I tried to quit....luckily I cam to my senses ....

/on topic
 
  #44  
Old 10-01-2013, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dan983
I'm experiencing the exact same problem. It started prior to my changing and balancing new wheels so I know it's not a wheel or tire problem. My mechanic looked and said all looked fine?

Please let me know your solution! Thank you

I will let you know.

Mine I noticed the day I had new tires put on. But I probably started way before that.

Originally Posted by Alfons
I just quit drinking - that stopped my shaking
well I just started and it seems to be going away now. Who new a bottle of rum would fix everything. What a waste of $1200
 
  #45  
Old 10-01-2013, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by sdsdsd
Resurface the rear drums. It makes no sense but got rid of the shake for me.
Im hoping to check those this week. I haven't check them since the first year I bought the truck
 
  #46  
Old 10-01-2013, 08:12 PM
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Well my tie rods came in this morning got em off amazon for $104 shipped the best I could find. Now I just have to get my sway bar links and check my drums and see if I need them done to well I'm there lol
 
  #47  
Old 10-02-2013, 08:54 AM
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In my experience, sway-bar end-links won't cause shaking. You get sort of a jerk/clunk as the truck lays over in a corner and tries to engage the sway bar to transfer load to the unloaded side of the suspension.

I would get the tie-rods on ASAP! SBELs can be installed without even jacking up the truck if you are nimble and haven't lowered the beast.

SBELs generally go when shocks/struts have been left too long - the increased activity on them is too much - their only real job is to transfer load to the opposite side in a corner, springs are made softer to make the ride more comfortable, which is too soft for cornering, but when cornering, only the outside spring system is really working, so the sway bar transfers some of the load to the opposite side and makes it corner better.

If the tie-rod ends aren't too rusty, they are an easy job - there are very good install videos/how-toos out there. GIVER!
 
  #48  
Old 10-02-2013, 04:11 PM
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The only reason I'm doing my sway bar links is because the bushings on one side are splitting and cracking on the other side. No I would never buy a truck and drop it lol. I would have bought a car other wise lol.

ok i will do my tie rods this weekend if I get some time. Tie rods dont look to hard. I dont think they were that rusty if at all
 
  #49  
Old 10-02-2013, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Greatrack2012
The only reason I'm doing my sway bar links is because the bushings on one side are splitting and cracking on the other side. No I would never buy a truck and drop it lol. I would have bought a car other wise lol.

ok i will do my tie rods this weekend if I get some time. Tie rods dont look to hard. I dont think they were that rusty if at all
Just mark or count the threads so you know how far to screw the new ones back in. Many will recommend an alignment afterwards. I bucked the trend and did not. Experienced no undue tire wear so I called it good.
 
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jkeaton
Just mark or count the threads so you know how far to screw the new ones back in. Many will recommend an alignment afterwards. I bucked the trend and did not. Experienced no undue tire wear so I called it good.

Lol thanks for the advice. ill probably grt an alignment lol
 


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