Approximately three weeks ago, I forded a creek that was running across a forest service road. The water was deeper than I thought, but I was not too concerned because the truck has LT265/70R17 tires; Trailmaster front lift; and Monroe load levelers in the rear. I could feel the water running under the body pan, but I went through slowly, and did not get any water inside the body, or on the fan. Since then, I have been having some peculiar problems. First, the fuel gauge read about 1/4 tank less than what was actually in the truck. After a couple of fill ups, this problem went away. Next up was the Engine Malfunction Light. It was time to replace the plugs and service the air filter. After those were complete, I cleared the code and everything was fine for a few days. Then, I got the encrypted "gascap" message. After retightening and clearing the code a few times, I replaced the gas cap, which resolved that problem. The Engine Malfunction Light (EML) returned a couple of days later. Since the truck had undergone a series of hot/cold weather changes lately on trips to the local mountains, I thought maybe I had a condensation problem. I added a can of Heet, and after using that tank, cleared the code. Three days later, the EML is back. Now, I am getting paranoid, and wondering if water from the creek crossing might have gotten in the charcoal canister or the O2 sensor. Just wondering if anyone else had done a water crossing and has unusual issues. The truck has 94,599 miles on it, which also made me wonder if certain codes automatically trigger the EML when you are approaching a certain mileage, as happens on some other makes of vehicles. hanks, and sorry for the length of this post.

 

These trucks aren't built for off-roading, so immersion in water can do a bunch of odd things - many will be due to water getting into connectors, sensors, etc. For your current engine light issue, don't just clear the code, read it first and post what the reader picks up - this will at least give everyone some direction to look in without randomly giving you "fix it" advise.

Since your axles and drive train were under water, I would check the fluid in the differential. The differentials, transfer case, and transmission have no vent tubes like you'd see on a jeep and because of that, when you drive a hot vehicle into cold water, the quick cooling causes a pressure differential that can suck water in (you see this fairly often in areas near boat or water recreational vehicle launch points where these things are launched off trailers - the vehicles towing the trailers often back the trailer and their back axle into the water as soon as they arrive). I would open the diff plugs and see if you have gear oil of a milky emulsion. I'd also do this with the t-case as well. It's not likely that you'd have any problems with the transmission, but check the dip stick anyway.

 

the rear axle has a vent tube but that's it. you definitely need to read the code and tell us what they are..if the truck is running okay then don't be so paranoid. I have a lift and what not but its more so for cosmetics..I know that these things are more of road kings than off-road machines, unfortunately, although they're more than capable of doing most tasks once you get a leveling kit and decent tires on them

 

+3 for reading the code. If you don't have a reader and have been "clearing" it by disconnecting the battery, you can take it to any auto parts store and they will read your codes for free. AutoZone, Advance Auto, O'Reillys, etc. all do this for you at no charge.

Let is know what you find and we can help further.

 

First things first. I would have dodged the river instead of fording it. But at least you didn't Chevy it. And I would look into some bigger tires....17" tires must be a hell of a ride.

sorry its early and I didnt eat my pancakes yet lol. Yea scan the code before anything x4 or 5 or whatever number were at now.
good luck

 

Thought I was home free, but the MIL and gascap warnings returned, so I bought a code reader for less than the cost of one trip to the stealership. I read the codes last night and got the following codes. Explanations are from the code reader manufacturer website (Actron).

PO457-Evaporative System Loose Fuel Cap
PO456-Evaporative Emission System-Small Leak
PO-0440-General Evaporative System Malfunction

I had replaced the gas cap earlier, so I know that is an indicator of something else. I am thinking that I need to replace the NVLD pump and evaporative canister. Unless you guys have a better idea.

projektdirtfab, sorry I miswrote when I said 17" tires. Meant to say 17" wheels. Tires are LT265/70R17. There was no way around this creek, and I had just met three vehicles that had made the crossing. I have had a 4WD as my primary vehicle since the late sixties, and have forded many creeks in Louisiana, Colorado, and CA. I am dumbfounded that any 4WD manufacturer would mount water sensitive components under the vehicle. That will be a deal killer on my next 4WD. Guess that is why I still have my 85 Jeep and 93 Suburban 4WD. Thanks for your input.

 

You may have pulled an evap hose loose. Or even worse, there may have been a purge event while submerged which could pull water into the evap system. Especially with the way dodge designed our evap. I'd follow the evap hoses back from the purge solenoid, which is against the firewall on the drivers side, look for a pulled or torn hose all the way back to the fuel tank. It's normal function is to contain the evaporated gasoline and then purge it into the intake manifold when critical pressure is reached.

 

Just read this now, at the beginning of October, I was on a small 4x4 venture with my buddy and had run into 2 problems: a broken tie rod end and a misfire on #5 cyl (Coil Pack) right deep in the bush or all places.

We did a trail fix every 10 feet by popping the joint back again (we could not find any wire to do a temp fix) but instead I tried limping back to the road where I could call a tow truck.

The one area involved a water crossing, it was up to my rocker panels (2"lift with 265/75R16's On that pass it popped back out and I had to go swimming to grab a tow strap and drag it out, maybe 30 feet from dry land.

Once we got it onto dry land we found a wire and did a better job at fixing it, limped it back home.

A few days later it would not fill properly, always clicking off and once in a while my gas cap light would come on and off....I am now thinking I have the same issues as you....

Can you fill your truck normally? I can't in mine, it takes forever and shuts off like its full, no matter how empty the tank is.

 

I had that issue after I first forded the creek. The tank was filling, but the gauge is not registering full (only read 3/4). After the second fill up that straightened itself out. My interpretation was that water in the gauge wiring was interfering with the reading. Probably a ground issue, as that happens with the Jeep every so often. It has not happened again.

 

The charcoal canister and it's venting system is involved in your ability to fill the tank properly. If the canister or it's venting system get plugged, you'll experience difficulty in filling the tank, so, you may have a canister full of water.