tighten steering column
#1
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Thanks.
#4
There are two sections to the column held together with a pinch bolt. A round pipe clamped around a squared pipe. Very poor design. I tightened mine several times and the noise would go away for a few months, then come back. I finally got tired of it and drilled a hole through the joint and bolted it together.
Separately, I had a squeaky steering wheel. I read here that several folks had gone to the dealer and ended up getting the whole steering column and wheel replaced. Not cheep! Later, I ran across a Dodge document instructing dealers how to fix the squeak. It requires you to loosen the fasteners holding the rubber boot to the floor. Turn the steering wheel back and forth to allow the boot to find it's natural location, then tighten it back down. It's been two years and no squeaks!
Separately, I had a squeaky steering wheel. I read here that several folks had gone to the dealer and ended up getting the whole steering column and wheel replaced. Not cheep! Later, I ran across a Dodge document instructing dealers how to fix the squeak. It requires you to loosen the fasteners holding the rubber boot to the floor. Turn the steering wheel back and forth to allow the boot to find it's natural location, then tighten it back down. It's been two years and no squeaks!
#5
There are two sections to the column held together with a pinch bolt. A round pipe clamped around a squared pipe. Very poor design. I tightened mine several times and the noise would go away for a few months, then come back. I finally got tired of it and drilled a hole through the joint and bolted it together.
Separately, I had a squeaky steering wheel. I read here that several folks had gone to the dealer and ended up getting the whole steering column and wheel replaced. Not cheep! Later, I ran across a Dodge document instructing dealers how to fix the squeak. It requires you to loosen the fasteners holding the rubber boot to the floor. Turn the steering wheel back and forth to allow the boot to find it's natural location, then tighten it back down. It's been two years and no squeaks!
Separately, I had a squeaky steering wheel. I read here that several folks had gone to the dealer and ended up getting the whole steering column and wheel replaced. Not cheep! Later, I ran across a Dodge document instructing dealers how to fix the squeak. It requires you to loosen the fasteners holding the rubber boot to the floor. Turn the steering wheel back and forth to allow the boot to find it's natural location, then tighten it back down. It's been two years and no squeaks!
#6
http://www.factorymoparparts.com/55351234ab.html
http://rtpartscointernational.com/55351234ab.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/APDTY-536377-Steering-Shaft-Lower-Intermediate-w-Universal-Rag-U-Joint-s-/231077911963?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cd511d9b&vxp=mtr
http://www.dodgepartsstore.com/oem-p...aft/55351234ac
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-LOWER-STEERING-INTERMEDIATE-SHAFT-2005-2011-DAKOTA-RAIDER-55351234AC-/380534607867?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5899a14ffb
Hope that is enough links to get you started lol
Part # is 55351234AC
http://rtpartscointernational.com/55351234ab.html
Amazon.com: APDTY 536377 Steering Shaft Lower Intermediate w/Universal Rag U-Joint(s) For 2006-2011 Dodge Dakota / 2006-2011 Mitsubishi Raider (Replaces Mopar Part #: 55351234AC, 55351234AB, 55351234, 055351234AC): Automotive
http://www.ebay.com/itm/APDTY-536377-Steering-Shaft-Lower-Intermediate-w-Universal-Rag-U-Joint-s-/231077911963?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cd511d9b&vxp=mtr
http://www.dodgepartsstore.com/oem-p...aft/55351234ac
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-LOWER-STEERING-INTERMEDIATE-SHAFT-2005-2011-DAKOTA-RAIDER-55351234AC-/380534607867?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5899a14ffb
Hope that is enough links to get you started lol
Part # is 55351234AC
#7
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#8
Changing the intermediate shaft is pretty easy, one pinch bolt on top, one on bottom.
You do not have to worry about how it goes in because the shafts have flat spots that only allow it to go on one way.
I would make sure to hit those bolts with some PB Blaster a few times a day or so before you try and remove the bolts. Mine was rusted to bad I had to drill it out.
If the pinch bolts come out easy it should only be an hour job tops from start to finish
You do not have to worry about how it goes in because the shafts have flat spots that only allow it to go on one way.
I would make sure to hit those bolts with some PB Blaster a few times a day or so before you try and remove the bolts. Mine was rusted to bad I had to drill it out.
If the pinch bolts come out easy it should only be an hour job tops from start to finish
#9