3rd Gen Dakota 2005 - 2011 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 3rd Gen Dakota.

New Dakota few questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 02:20 PM
  #1  
bchapin05's Avatar
bchapin05
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Default New Dakota few questions

I just traded my 94 wrangler straight across for a 06 Dakota. Was just sick of the ride, road noise, being cold, stuck in rain with no top and all that fun that comes with a jeep.

The only issue currently is the brake light is stuck on. The previous owner said he had it inspected and the tire store said the brakes are perfectly fine. Could it be due to the e-brake latch not triggering it off? It beeps as you take off so I'm assuming it thinks the e-brake is engaged.

I also need to grab some tires/wheels but was going to raise it a bit first as coming from a lifted Jeep I hate how low it sits. I read the stickies and was hoping to go 3 inch PA body with a leveling spacer. However I have a manual so sounds like I'm stuck with leveling kit and a block. Is that correct? Or has anyone found a way to make the body lift work with a manual?

Also thinking 17 will be the best on the wheels if I want MT's? I looked at 18's in the size on the stickies and tires.com has no MT's in a 265/65/18 but lots of 265/70/17s. So if I want MT's I'm thinking a 17 will be best.

Thanks
 

Last edited by bchapin05; Apr 28, 2014 at 02:33 PM.
Reply
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 05:56 PM
  #2  
ailingthree0's Avatar
ailingthree0
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, Az
Default

Just some suggestions, i have a 3 inch spacer in the front of my truck, on top of my strut and it leveled the truck out nicely, just throw some rancho shocks on the back to stiffen and level the end and you should be good to clear larger tires. i bought my kit on ebay for like $50 and have had no issues with it. I'm running 265/70/16's right now with no rub and no issues so you should be good.
as far as the brake light I would just double check to make sure the parking brake sensor is properly hooked up so you can get that pesky light off. good luck man.
 
Reply
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 06:19 PM
  #3  
jkeaton's Avatar
jkeaton
DF Admin
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Liked
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 28,204
Likes: 363
From: Winston Salem, NC
Default

Do not go over 2" leveling kit on a 4x4. You're asking for trouble.
 
Reply
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 06:22 PM
  #4  
ailingthree0's Avatar
ailingthree0
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, Az
Default

no? it was advertised as a 3 inch kit but it didn't raise it that much IMO. But rides good for a daily driver. i'll have to see when i go camping this weekend the issues ill have.
 
Reply
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 07:39 PM
  #5  
dakotaff's Avatar
dakotaff
Champion
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,971
Likes: 91
From: Jersey
Default

Stick with a 1.5" or 2" kit, your front end will thank you. 265/70/17 tires will fit perfectly, and there's a lot of tire choices in that size, same size that I have. As for the brake issue, I would look into it ASAP, probable the parking brake needs an adjustment.

Welcome aboard.
 

Last edited by dakotaff; Apr 28, 2014 at 07:42 PM.
Reply
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 08:01 PM
  #6  
jkeaton's Avatar
jkeaton
DF Admin
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Liked
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 28,204
Likes: 363
From: Winston Salem, NC
Default

No, even a 2" wont raise it 2". But, a 3" will put the tie rods, ball joints and CV joints at extreme angles they are not meant to be used 100% of the time. Then factor in articulation and they will not be happy and not last long.
 
Reply
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 09:19 PM
  #7  
06Dak4.7Silver's Avatar
06Dak4.7Silver
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,655
Likes: 1
From: Boston, MA
Default

do the recommended leveling kit and get 265/70/17s. you will fall in love and forget about the Jeep
 
Reply
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 11:42 PM
  #8  
bchapin05's Avatar
bchapin05
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Default

Cool thanks. I have a 2wd which I read wasn't as bad with the leveling kit so I was thinking of going with the rough country 2.5 and 1.5 block. Then likely go with a 265/70/17. I had the Bf Goodrich MT on the Jeep which I liked but might go with something different this time.

I will check the brake adjustment tomorrow. I've been busy polishing, waxing, and restoring headlights. He wasn't the best at keeping up on that stuff. Meguires ultimate compound and a power drill did wonders, the paint looks new again.

Had a 06 Ram and 05 Ram before the Jeep so looking forward to getting back to truck.

What is the easiest way to get to the fender right behind the headlight? It sounds like taking the light out on these isn't fun. It sort of feels like I could remove the intake pipe and get to it. Or remove the bumper. There is one dent right by the headlight and it looks like it would pop out if I can get back there.
 

Last edited by bchapin05; Apr 28, 2014 at 11:44 PM.
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2014 | 12:44 AM
  #9  
EVguy's Avatar
EVguy
Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 273
Likes: 8
From: Errington BC Canada
Default

Originally Posted by bchapin05
I read the stickies and was hoping to go 3 inch PA body with a leveling spacer. However I have a manual so sounds like I'm stuck with leveling kit and a block. Is that correct? Or has anyone found a way to make the body lift work with a manual?
Thanks
What is supposed to be the problem with a manual?
Mine is a manual with the PA body lift. I had no problems but then its not exactly a stock setup so I may not have run into whatever the problem with a manual is.
 
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2014 | 06:58 AM
  #10  
dakotaff's Avatar
dakotaff
Champion
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,971
Likes: 91
From: Jersey
Default

Originally Posted by bchapin05
What is the easiest way to get to the fender right behind the headlight? It sounds like taking the light out on these isn't fun. It sort of feels like I could remove the intake pipe and get to it. Or remove the bumper. There is one dent right by the headlight and it looks like it would pop out if I can get back there.
The headlight is easy to remove, 3 screws right in front, not sure how much room it will give you though.

1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the three screws (3) that secure the
inboard and lower mounts of the front lamp unit (1)
to the front fender headlamp bracket (4).
3. Grasp the lamp firmly and pull straight forward to
disengage the ball stud (2) on the back of the
upper outboard corner of the lamp from the plastic
grommet (7) in the fender bracket.
4. Pull the lamp away from the front fender far
enough to access and disconnect the two wire harness
connections (6) from the headlamp bulb and
the front park/turn signal/side marker bulb socket
on the back of the lamp.
5. Remove the front lamp unit from the fender.


The screws are located in the green spots, fold back the black lining on the left to access those. I forget if they're phillips head , torx, or bolts.
bf7b0fff-9670-4fbe-a6cc-8a768dbde0df.jpg
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:18 PM.