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Exhaust manifold repair tip

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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 11:49 PM
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Default Exhaust manifold repair tip

While the front end of the truck was disassembled during my long travel suspension build, I decided I better repair the leaky exhaust manifold on the driver side. When I took it apart I noticed that the exhaust gases and/or the resulting moisture had started to corrode both the mating surfaces of the manifold and the head. If you have this problem you probably shouldn't wait too long to repair it lest you suffer a perpetually leaky manifold gasket do too uneven mating surfaces. Mine had a broken bolt near the firewall; it may have had two broken bolts as one of them twisted in half with very little torque. They were right next to each other. This, apparently, was causing the exhaust leak and as you can see by the photo if I had let it go for a long time it may have permanently damaged the mating surfaces of the manifold and the head. I had let it go for at least six months probably more like a year. The noise was quite embarrassing.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 12:39 PM
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JB-weld?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 03:23 PM
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Use JB weld then make sure surface is flat reinstall manifold should be good for a while
 
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 09:21 PM
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I hate doing things twice, so I think I would buy a new manifold. Dorman aftermarket manifolds are cheap enough in most cases that it's not worth messing with one like that.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 12:12 AM
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Still have to address the head side or it might still leak even with new exhaust manifold. That is the side I suggested he use JB weld on to level the surface out
 
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by djibara
Still have to address the head side or it might still leak even with new exhaust manifold. That is the side I suggested he use JB weld on to level the surface out
Agreed. The head doesn't look as bad as the manifold, though, and it's a lot more expensive. I would probably use some high-temp silicone on it, but JB Weld would probably work, too.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 06:09 PM
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i had mine done at a muffler place and they sent it to a machine shop and ground off like .03
 
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 01:18 PM
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I just posted this as an fyi, but you guys had great suggestions. I had already re-assembled so I did not employ any of the advice. There is a fair amount of good bearing surface so hopefully it will hold. Truck sounds great now, but only time will tell. At least I used stainless and anti-seize if it has to be repaired.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 05:57 PM
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all the way at the back of the engine/manifold, right?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by h2ogunr
all the way at the back of the engine/manifold, right?
Yep. Rear two on the left side. One bolt was snapped, the other twisted off with light pressure; couldn't have been holding much. I was surprised that the factory anti-seize was still present on most of them. The one that was already broken came out with vise grips. The other twisted off below the surface of the head (yay!) Successful drill and re-tap as the e-z out proved to be the opposite of it's brand name. Obviously the mani to cat bolts were replaced as well. Torqued em all, ran the truck for a few, then re-torqued.
 
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