You need some rust penetrant, then alternate with something like carb cleaner to dissolve the varnish around the likely solidified o-ring on the sensor. All you want to do it twist back and forth. Pull very gently.




TAKE YOUR TIME. You don't want to break it off. On the real tough ones,(after you get it pretty loose) we sometimes put a heater hose clamp around the body of it and use a pry bar against the clamp, JUST to hold pressure on it while twisting back and forth.

 

okay!
new starter arrived...
Installed it..
Truck does not start..
cranking over with MUCH less strength than before..
I did not remove the Crankshaft sensor afterwards...I did order a new one..
I plugged it back in today when i installed the starter..

IT is sounding like the battery is pretty low..it very well could be attributing to it...


I took another video of what it sounds like now

vid2 - YouTube

this is what it sounded like before

IMG 0074 - YouTube

ALSO
NOW when I am plugging the plug back into the sensor, its not making a CLICK noise.. could that be a problem?

ALSO

on my OLD starter, the PLUG that connects to the starter solenoid - not the copper clip .. - is on the other side. opposed to now being behind the copper coil . . .. look at picture

the original plug coming from the battery DOES not fit into the receiver that is in same position that was on the old starter...
I have pictures and video.
please check out
SEE where the yellow wire is going? on my old starter, the yellow wire would have been going to the oppisite side next to the exposed copper coil into that receiver ..except now that receiver does not accommodate the plug

 

sounds like it's the wrong starter (always match to original) low battery will cause issues (and an alternator won't charge a dead battery, but will destroy the alternator)

 

I can't see it being the wrong starter..
I bought it from Rockauto.com...

says its good for 2006-2010 dodge dakota..and it is good for my 2007 4.7 v8

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=447&jpid=0

passed the inspection test.
starter type: ND
starter model: PLGR
rated power 1.2kw
rated voltage 12 v
free run speed 3335rpm
free run current 70 amp
max power 1.04kw
max torque 9.92 nm
max of current 348 amp
rippel 11 amp
direction CW
hold current 11amp
pull current 30 amp
voltage drop 0.2911 V

whatever all that means..

I brought my battery to the garage over the road to charge over night..

other then that, I can only hope its the crankshaft positioning sensor..
if not that . then I will have to bring it to a garage..
which I really dont want to do , especially after the long wait for my starter motor from UPS , almost two weeks.
the Sensors should be here tomorrow.

regardless I will be trying with a charged battery tomorrow morning.

archmedes74
can you explain what you mean by the "alternator wont charge a dead battery but will destroy and alternator?"

 

please look at these photos veterans please.

they are of the starter solenoid.

there is the stud that has a bolt that screws down to tighten the copper clip that is transmitting the current from the battery
then the second smaller one ,yellow, which is the second wire coming from battery which is received by the ignition when you turn the key right? that is a plug.
The plug , on my original starter, clipped into the metal prong on the top side of solenoid
on this new starter, the prongue on the top, does not fit the plug

but it does clip into the bottom prongue , as in the picture...
what the funk...

another video of my crankshaft sensor...it wont come out....rotted
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkeU...ature=youtu.be

 

alternator is a maintainer, it will have to work too hard to recharge the battery and they burn up from it (I've replaced a few dozen caused by bad batteries)

 

i just got a code from the truck

p0562...
low voltage

and it just had the battery charged..
could this be the alternator???
**** so pissed off..

 

was the battery just reconnected just prior to you starting up? or did you charge it and do a few tries before the actual startup and you got this code? Were you cranking for a while? I would look at the battery before looking at the alternator.

You say that you just had it charged, but what kind of charge (trickle or normal) and with what kind of charger? was the charger smart enough to have a test mode that puts load on the battery to see if it's still good?

If the charger is not smart enough, bring it to a local parts store, they usually have a battery tester

 

No idea..I left it over night at a garage..
Said they would charge it over night - end of story..

the battery is not even one year old..

 

take it where you bought it, they should be able to test it, and should have a warranty (lead acid batteries hate being discharged and often go bad)