07 Dak, Starter motor ... Help- pics + youtube vid
#1
07 Dak, Starter motor ... Help- pics + youtube vid
Hello All,
thankfully,
I haven't had to post too much in the forums lately..
I will get to it.
( for those who just want to try and quick diagnose without reading my story - here is the youtube link
https://youtu.be/CuOht6qDT3w
)
The other morning
Truck would not start. cranked over , repeatedly trying to fire up, but didn't seem like it had the power.
Came home later that day , still wouldn't fire up
it would crank and crank after turning the key.. but wouldn't fire up.
Neighbor comes over and suggests boosting it...
after doing so,....the truck just goes
Click, Click, Click
wont even crank over..
pissed off, nothing to say to anyone...
i brought battery inside ( it was coldest night on record night before)figured it might help the battery
Next morning, hook up the battery,
I get it cranking over again, but still wont go. ( not just clicking)
I turn the key, and run to look under hood
I see Sparks coming from the connection to the starter solenoid..
the copper clip to the stud on the solenoid has a bit of play,
I disconnect battery,
go to tighten the lug, and see if it gets any better whne cranking...it does
I wiggle the wire , and the copper clip attached to wire coming from battery corroded apart...
see PICTURE
anyway
I re wired a new copper clip . . .conductor, whatever you want to call it..
and went to loosen the Stud on solenoid to reconnect it...
the stud napped it clean offf..
un-bolted the starter..
tried backing the bolt out,
to no avail....
I have ordered a new starter online..not thinking about getting the one i taking it out checked out a shop
I bought a new one online 100% new inside and out for $142,
all shops were closed the weekend, and Monday was a local Holiday, plus a snow storm so everything was closed and I went on a wim thinking ordering it was my best bet -
TOday , I found a used starter motor , 3 month warranty for $75 bucks in town...was thinking , buy that one, bolt it in, see if that fires the truck up , and if so , return it? or the new one when it gets here
MY question is..
I am not sure if this is even what the problem was, until i started messing with the starter , it could have been an entirely different problem..
I don't want to wait a week+ for my starter and it gets here and i put it in, and that wasn't even the problem! I guess a new starter cant hurt
my neighbor boosting me could of fried the starter when boosting it? or chances are the starter was shot anyway,
a few weeks ago , the same thing happened but after disconnecting battery terminal for a half hour or so, then reconnecting, it started up fine, and it was pretty cold out that morning aswell.
anyway
take a look at the starter , maybe it is evidently SHOT
the strap on one end looks shyt.
thankfully,
I haven't had to post too much in the forums lately..
I will get to it.
( for those who just want to try and quick diagnose without reading my story - here is the youtube link
https://youtu.be/CuOht6qDT3w
)
The other morning
Truck would not start. cranked over , repeatedly trying to fire up, but didn't seem like it had the power.
Came home later that day , still wouldn't fire up
it would crank and crank after turning the key.. but wouldn't fire up.
Neighbor comes over and suggests boosting it...
after doing so,....the truck just goes
Click, Click, Click
wont even crank over..
pissed off, nothing to say to anyone...
i brought battery inside ( it was coldest night on record night before)figured it might help the battery
Next morning, hook up the battery,
I get it cranking over again, but still wont go. ( not just clicking)
I turn the key, and run to look under hood
I see Sparks coming from the connection to the starter solenoid..
the copper clip to the stud on the solenoid has a bit of play,
I disconnect battery,
go to tighten the lug, and see if it gets any better whne cranking...it does
I wiggle the wire , and the copper clip attached to wire coming from battery corroded apart...
see PICTURE
anyway
I re wired a new copper clip . . .conductor, whatever you want to call it..
and went to loosen the Stud on solenoid to reconnect it...
the stud napped it clean offf..
un-bolted the starter..
tried backing the bolt out,
to no avail....
I have ordered a new starter online..not thinking about getting the one i taking it out checked out a shop
I bought a new one online 100% new inside and out for $142,
all shops were closed the weekend, and Monday was a local Holiday, plus a snow storm so everything was closed and I went on a wim thinking ordering it was my best bet -
TOday , I found a used starter motor , 3 month warranty for $75 bucks in town...was thinking , buy that one, bolt it in, see if that fires the truck up , and if so , return it? or the new one when it gets here
MY question is..
I am not sure if this is even what the problem was, until i started messing with the starter , it could have been an entirely different problem..
I don't want to wait a week+ for my starter and it gets here and i put it in, and that wasn't even the problem! I guess a new starter cant hurt
my neighbor boosting me could of fried the starter when boosting it? or chances are the starter was shot anyway,
a few weeks ago , the same thing happened but after disconnecting battery terminal for a half hour or so, then reconnecting, it started up fine, and it was pretty cold out that morning aswell.
anyway
take a look at the starter , maybe it is evidently SHOT
the strap on one end looks shyt.
Last edited by calixdakota; 03-20-2015 at 04:42 PM.
#3
I am pretty much asking. .. .
think its the starter?
my battery is not even one year old, truck is driven daily.
headlights seemed just as bright as usual, all interior lighting was working fine..
Last year when i Bought a new battery because the battery in it was gone i found out after i towed it to a shop and they took my battery and charged it and it worked fine...
the truck would fire up fine and then die before driving a couple feet in gear.
so i don't think it was the battery.
i didn't get a chance to put a multimeter on it..
maybe before I hook my new starter up , I will check the voltage on my battery...
any other suggestions..
think its the starter?
my battery is not even one year old, truck is driven daily.
headlights seemed just as bright as usual, all interior lighting was working fine..
Last year when i Bought a new battery because the battery in it was gone i found out after i towed it to a shop and they took my battery and charged it and it worked fine...
the truck would fire up fine and then die before driving a couple feet in gear.
so i don't think it was the battery.
i didn't get a chance to put a multimeter on it..
maybe before I hook my new starter up , I will check the voltage on my battery...
any other suggestions..
#4
#5
yea?
I bought a new crankshaft sensor a year ago because my truck wasn't firing up some days of the week , but it went away on its own, so i returned it!!
I was going to order one with the starter motor.
so is it possible I did all that work for nothing?
pullin the starter out?
I am sure I will need a new starter eventually....
I may need assistance replacing that CSS..
I thought that you got at it from behind the passenger wheel side?
I bought a new crankshaft sensor a year ago because my truck wasn't firing up some days of the week , but it went away on its own, so i returned it!!
I was going to order one with the starter motor.
so is it possible I did all that work for nothing?
pullin the starter out?
I am sure I will need a new starter eventually....
I may need assistance replacing that CSS..
I thought that you got at it from behind the passenger wheel side?
#7
Man, is that starter housing busted at the back end?
Anyway, crank but no start could be a bunch of things. At 200K who knows. If you have a crank sensor signal down, it will typically take 20-30 secs of cranking (with a full battery charge btw) to generate the crank sensor code.
Anyway, crank but no start could be a bunch of things. At 200K who knows. If you have a crank sensor signal down, it will typically take 20-30 secs of cranking (with a full battery charge btw) to generate the crank sensor code.
Last edited by TNtech; 03-18-2015 at 09:40 AM.
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