Took my truck into Dodge dealer to get free suspension check. They told me my left lower ball joint was bad ($600). Also the left seal on steering gear seal is leaking and should replace gear ($800). I am some what mechanically inclined and know driving out a lower ball joint might be a problem at home. I replaced the return line to power steering a while back. Below is some questions.
I'm assuming I'll have to remove the whole wish bone (Don't know the correct name) when replacing both ball joints. Is it going to be a major task to drive out the joints when I get it on the bench?
Is there any videos out there that could help?
As far as the seal leaking I'm assuming it would be best to just replace the steering gear rather than trying to replace the seal? Also any good video out there?
Thanks

 

Ball joints are not that bad. Rent a ball joint removal tool (press) from an autoparts store. You don't have to remove the control arm, just the spindle. Lots of videos on you tube.

 

Jkeaton, you took the words right out of my mouth!

I would recommend to get ball joints with a zert fitting, so you can grease, if needed later.

 

Easy, peasy, lemon squeezy.

Did my passenger side a couple of weeks ago (thank haysus for the October weather in December). My only issue was that the top of the spindle dropped out of the upper ball joint taper before the nut was all the way off. The ball joint then spun while trying to get the nut off. Took me an extra twenty minutes.

If it is a 2wd, then you don't have to disconnect the tie-rod end. Just disconnect the spindle top and bottom and swing it out of the way and place it on an overturned bucket. 4wd won't slip over the half-shaft easily without removing the tie-rod end.

Good luck, take your time, spray EVERYTHING with penetrating fluid for a couple of days if you have the time, get a bigger hammer.

 

The biggest struggle when I did mine was the retainibg clip, I even had retaining clip pliers. Granted they were very tiny pliers and not the right style, ended up holding pliers with both hands then had a flathead screwdriver balanced between my forehead and the the other end of the clip to push down once I had the clip opened.

 

Thanks everyone. Due to Christmas I haven't gotten to it. I will use the suggestions when I do. Thanks again

 

Hello All,

I have a 2007 Dakota 4WD with two bad lower ball joints.

I can't seem to find any complete step by step instructions to do this for my model anywhere.

I found one very clear video but the uploader had completely removed the strut before working on the ball joint.

Do I need to compress the strut spring to take the load off the lower control arm? Or can I just support the lower control arm with a jack?

Thanks in advance.

 

No you don't need top compress the strut. Just remove the spindle. Support the truck by the front control arm so you can remove the spindle.

 

Thanks for the quick reply! I've searched a few other sources for information (Service Manuals, Haynes, Youtube) but the details have been a bit vague!

 

I just rebuilt my entire front end to include struts, tie rod end, lower ball joints, hubs/bearings, stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer bar end links, and also got rear shocks. I purchased all of this from Rock Auto for under $600. There was no way I was paying all that money for labor, I couldn't afford it.

I am of average mechanical ability, if I did it, then you can. I had never used a ball joint press before but I got it done. You can rent it from advance auto for about $230 (get the master kit with all the adapters, the cheap one from Autozone onlu had 3 and they weren't the ones I needed). You get your money back when you return it.

It certainly helps if you have a good compressor and a stout impact gun. I borrowed them from a buddy. Otherwise you can do it with basic wrenches and sockets, just takes a little longer.

Here's what I remember about the job:

Before you jack up the truck, loosen lug nuts (7/8") and the axle nut if you are 4x4 (35/36mm).

Jack up truck, set jack stands in place.

Remove wheel and remove axle nut.

Remove the brake caliper bracket bolts (2) 21mm I think? And remove the entire bracket/caliper assembly. Tie it up to something so you don't damage the brake line. I set mine on a bucket.

Remove your brake rotor. If it is stuck on, tap it using a hammer and block of wood so you don't damage the rotor. Set aside the rotor.

Disconnect the tie rod (remove cotter pin and undo the nut). This makes it easier to turn the steering knuckle to gain access to the bolts holding the hub/bearing on.

Remove the 3 bolts from the back of the wheel hub/bearing assembly and remove the hub. One of mine came off real easy, the other took some convincing with the hammer.

Then push the CV half shaft thru the knuckle and tie it up out of the way (if you are 4x4).

Remove the nut from the upper control arm holding it to the knuckle at your upper ball joint. Then tap on the upper control arm where the bolt goes thru a few times, this shock will allow the upper control arm ball joint to separate from the knuckle. This is where you want a jack under the lower are to support it.

Remove the nut holding the steering knuckle to the lower control arm and remove the knuckle.

Somewhere along the way I removed my stabilizer bar end links, but I was replacing struts as well and it made it easier to get the strut out. Not sure you'll have to do this.

Now you have access to work on the lower ball joint. Rent the press, press it out. Press in new ball joint. I'd recommend greasable ones of good quality.

Assembly is reverse of removal. Yes, it does take some time, which I had, because I sure didn't have the extra money!

This is definitely a good time to inspect all those parts you just removed for wear and replace as necessary, because who wants todo all this twice? LOL.

Good luck, let us know how it went.

Jason