06 dakota 82K miles 4.7l stalls at stop signs if u put it in Neutral no stall drop in drive stalls. did throttle plate cleaning.new iac motor ,set base idle up 200rpms trans fluid is ok,

 

Moved to the 3rd gen Dakota section.

 

Have you changed the spark plugs? Also, what IAC did you use? Our trucks like OEM parts when it comes to sensors. When cleaning the throttle body or changing the IAC, was the IAC port cleaned really well? You may also want to change the TPS.
Mine was doing this and I did all of the items I mentioned at the same time, so I cant really tell you which one was the cure, maybe a combination of them all.

Curious as to how you set the base idle up 200 rpm.

 

on right side of throttle there was a small hole used a torx and turned it used a scanner and saw the rpms go up

 

used a standard product iac motor

 

I was under the impression that the idle was controlled by the PCM and the IAC. I thought that the throttle plate was adjusted to a certain spec and was to be left alone.
So, after adjusting the ¨base idle¨, and then shutting the truck down and restarting later, does the idle still stay where you set it? I only ask this out of curiosity, because I am an ATV technician by trade, and the Brand/Company I work for have EFI 4 wheelers, and if I adjusted the set screw or throttle cable, once shut down and upon restart the computer looks for base values, and the PCM will use those values and resort back to the programmed idle, however, if the values are out of range then it will throw trouble codes such as TPS out of range.
I am not questioning what you did, I am just curioius for my own knowledge, and that is why I never tampered with any adjustments on my truck.
For the record, after warmed up my truck idles at 650 rpm, what are you at on yours?

 

You say Tranny Fluid is "ok". Nice n Pinkish ? Or Darkish with a Burnt smell at all ?
I'm Leaning to more of a Tranny staying locked up. A good Tranny flush (I prefer the BG flush kit) might be in order.
Reason I'm leaning this way....Mine did same. I pull a 22ft camper. Used the BG flush kit which contains a Cleaning agent and an Additive for afterwards. Stall Gone.
Hope this helps
WvChamp.

 

Have read of this being caused by the torque converter also.

 

I was having problems likes this with our Dakota when we first bought it. The truck had been sitting for awhile and was lacking in maintenance. What I ended up finding, and replacing, was the Exhaust Gas Recycle Valve. (EGR)
The valve was glitchy and randomly sticking. When , so whenever the truck idled down or shortly after a throttle blip (acceleration) the engine would go extremely lean and stall.
First thing you need to do is get an OBD scanner plugged in and see what codes the PCM is displaying. I understand there is also a key on/off/on/off... sequence that will make the PCM display the code(s) on the dash under the speedometer. I do not recall specifics, I have a tuner/scanner that I used to read the codes.
Get the codes pulled up onto a scanner or onto the dash. Then come back to us and let us know what they are.

Here is a link to my "similar" problem and ultimate solution.... http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=420569

Hope that helps!

 

To check your engine codes:
Turn the key to ON (not start), OFF, ON, OFF, ON and leave it there. If you look in the odometer window the codes will flash any code(s) with a small delay between each result. Each code should be in a P#### format, and will say PDONE when completed - turn your key to OFF and remove. Use the OBD code list to determine what problem the computer detected.