LOL, I'm not thaaaaat old. Car kid in the 60s and 70s . . .

But I do know how to change points, condenser and plugs. Especially on Fords, where you could actually reach the distributor . . .

 

 

Good to hear. Mine has worked flawlessly for the past six years. I was hesitant to install it from experience with other kits. I just expected a headache and a mess of hacked wires. But this thing was great. Easy setup, good instructions and really liked that it used the OEM remote. I ended up buying a few more kits for Christmas gifts for my sister and in-laws and theirs have also been trouble free.

If I ever buy another car without remote start I'll definitely be getting another one of their kits.

 

OK fellas – I need some more advice:

I installed a Fortin EVO-CHRT5 remote start in my 2010 Dodge Dakota (standard key) using Fortin "stand alone" instructions "C". The Fortin works great and does everything I want it to do.

But I only have one key that has lock/unlock/panic pushbuttons, so I ordered another key and followed the standard key (non-transponder) programming instructions. However, the new key wouldn't program, so I took it and my truck to our local locksmith. The new key wouldn't work for him either, so he tried to program one of his expensive keys (all the numbers on these keys are identical to the key that does work). He then hooked his key programming computer to the truck and tried to use the truck's key programming PIN - but that still didn't work. After asking the other locksmiths for advice, one said that having the EVO module hooked into the key switch harness might be causing the programming problem. But Fortin Technical Support says that their module wouldn’t be causing this problem.

This Dakota will start and run with one of those old flat keys, just like my 95 Dakota uses. So this is not a vehicle that has a transponder but uses the same key that a vehicle with a transponder would need cuz those keys have the lock/unlock/panic buttons. Confusing, huh? I have two sets of key programming instructions; one for transponder vehicles and one for standard key vehicles, but neither will program my new keys. The truck will chirp when the standard key instructions say it should, but neither my eBay key nor the locksmith's expensive key will program.

What say you? I hope you can steer me to a solution. Thanks for your help.

 

I've not heard of the module interfering with programming before. My in-laws had to get a new key on their Charger and the dealer was able to add it. I had a Fortin kit on their car at that time.

Couldn't hurt to unplug the t-harness and connect it back to stock and try again.

 

I'd put it in the 'too good to be true category. I know it's hard to believe but some of those "$0.99 Free Shipping" deals on ebay are really not much of a deal, haha. I speak from experience here, in fact my current problem may very well still be connected to my key problem which started over 2 yrs ago.

My style FOBIK is the one that inserts right into the dash. Flat key will not start it or even fit, must be a FOB or a transponder key with the chip housing that fits the ignition. I had only one since I owned the truck as second owner. That was stolen. Nightmare begin.... mainly cause I could not afford $550 for a new get up. So, "oh look, on ebay, FOBS only $10, great!" lol. They are no good, period. They don't have a chance. They may start out working but lifespan is about 30 days max, may not work at all. You MUST BUY OEM, factory refurbs are available on secondary market. Computer has many ins and outs for programming, many things could cause it to lock you out. And still, all broken things replaced it could still be locked until reset. I imagine working with the starter system you must have tripped something or disconnected something that it needs to communicate. And all of it comes back to your unique code which you can only get from a dealer, Dodge or a locksmith who has purchased the right computer and subscription with Dodge. Without that code you can't do it. With 2 working FOBs you can relay the code to a new one but you need 2 working ones and you have an after market system anyway. OEM FOB, cheap but competent locksmith, you'll be good. After market system or not that truck will not start without the code. Security,(transponder), Immobilizer, brake kill switch, alarm, computer lockout, remote start; there are many systems working together. Also, check your battery, a weak battery can wreak havoc on the computer and make it look like other things.

For the future on your Big Horn, I can tell you the wiring is insanely different from a 95 Dakota. The accessories, toggles, relays.... the demands and tasks required in the Big Horn electrical system are extensive and complex .

It may sound funny but read the section in your manual at the beginning that says "how to start your truck." and "keys and operating" something similar. There is good info about the behavior of your security light on the instrument panel. It flashes different patterns depending on the issue. If you still don't have a good manual, here is a free Dodge one ... www.manualslib.com

Good luck, I know I talk too much and say things everyone knows, but hopefully there is a nugget in there for you.

Peace

 

p.s. I used BOLD, BLUE type just for you, Mr. Tri-focal. haha k, I admit the blue was for me

 

Hi, sorry, lol. I see I missed something. Maybe I can make up for it...


+EVO-CHRT5 -

** These units required to be flashed/updated with a flashlink2 cable in order to set them up to use with your OEM key fob remote. Out of the box this unit will not function with your OEM remotes.
** T-Harness may not complete installation and some wires may need to be hard wired into vehicle similar to a typical car starter install.
** Check manufacturers web site to make sure your vehicle is compatible with this system

=center*As with any electronic item, additional installation parts may be required to complete installation

 

Well, did it help? Was it the flash cable or the T harness?