I have an '08 Dakota that I hate more every day.

Bought it 2+ years ago to replace an '05 Durango (best vehicle I have ever owned), was needed to pull an RV trailer (since sold) and do plow duty in New England winters. Bought with 113k, I think it has 124k now.

So cruise control is now intermittent, bought a new clock spring, haven't installed it yet. Windshield leaks in rain, CEL on and off, scans a P0138, O2 sensor. Had front struts done 6-9 months ago, now a loud clank/clunk going over small bumps. Still there when riding brakes (so no loose pads) or when in 4WD (so no floppy free axle shaft). Metal on metal clunk. Can't find any thing loose underneath, not ball joints, not sway bar links. Driving me nuts.

Now this. "SVC 4WD" light on and off. A few weeks ago, leaving a parking lot, the thing just decides to put itself into 4WD. Flipped the selector on on and off, and it seemed to fix. Tonight, I go to get curbside takeout. I pull in, shut off the engine, and in a few seconds here this sound form underneath. "Whhheeeeeee-click. Whhheeeeee-click, wheeee click, wheee-click" Stopped on it's own after 30-60 seconds. Finally, go to leave, and it's in 4WD. Could barely steer out of the paved parking lot. Switched the selector to 4WD then off and by time I had to make another pavement turn, it seemed to be back in 2WD.

I've had two RAM 1500s in the past, and both times had to deal with failing vacuum 4WD servos. Got familiar with the sliding gear 4WD engagement on those. Is the Dak different? I googled "SVC 4WD" and saw stuff about 4WD "motors" and control modules. Ugh.

Any help/tips on what to look for for this clunk and the tranny/4WD issues? I can deal with the rest probably. Have code scanner and didn't see any codes relative to the SVC 4WD light. Only P0138. Don't mind spending money and fixing stuff, but don't want to just throw parts at it. Really beginning to hate this truck.....

TIA

 

Had the same thing happen to my 05 SLT 4x4, except mine shifted into 4wd on the interstate. You likely need a new transfer case shift motor. I replaced mine and it fixed the issue, but it was kind of a pain to install. I had to take out the front shaft that goes from the transfer case to the front axle. After that you also have to remove the yoke that sticks out of the transfer case. It’s a large nut so make sure you have the right socket and I had to use an impact gun to release it.

I also realized at that time that the front shaft had a blown out grease boot so I ended up replacing the entire shaft. If your shaft also has a blown out grease boot you can replace that part and they make a kit to do it, I didn’t realize that at the time.

If you replace the transfer case motor just be prepared when you install it, you may need to manually turn the shift gear on the transfer case for the motor to fit in. The gear is keyed and the motor will only fit in when it lines up. I just used a pair of pliers to turn the transfer case shifter so it lined up.

 

If you are at the point you hate it, you should get rid of it because you will never be happy no matter what.

 

Given that you are called upon for plow duty, anytime i see intermittent electrical gremlins, My mind always goes straight to Corrosion in the electrical connectors.

my first step would be to crawl up under that truck with a tube of Di-electric grease, and one at a time pull out each plug on the transfer case, clean it with wd-40 and a tooth brush, add some DI-Electric grease and re-install.
May also explain your CEL Be worth checking the lower plugs on the O2 Sensors connectors as well.

The shift motor on the Transfer case in these trucks is directly connected to the shift linkage, may also be worth checking for any rust or corrision on the shift motor itself.

GOOD LUCK!!!!

 

pull the transfer case fuse until you can replace the case motor. this will prevent truck from going into 4 wheel.

 

My 2011 has been pretty solid. If I had any complaints it would related to the window felts. The outer seal on all four doors is starting to curl out a bit which creates wind noise above 70.

 

Well now it's stuck in 4WD and won't come out. I saw a video on replacing the transfer case motor. Doesn't look too bad, but I don't feel like doing it. I will drop it off at my local shop .6 mi away.

 

Well I finally MADE myself spend a day and fix the broken **** on this truck. Thought I would share how it was fixing 3 of the 4 things wrong with it.

I blew out the gap between the windshield and top edge of the cab with compressed air, wiped the edges of both the glass and paint down with carb cleaner, ran blue painters tape right along the painted edge, then filled the gap with a exterior black 100% silicone caulk. Then I used a piece of cardboard and wiped the surface smooth and flat. It actually came out pretty nice looking. Almost looks factory. Damn better stop the leak. I'll post a pic after it dries and I skim the glass with a razor blade to get the excess off there.

Replaced the clock spring (cruise control was intermittent). Watched the Youtube video. It must be a for a Ram, mine was a bit different and a bit simpler. The trick about alternate whacking the steering wheel on the back side DID NOT get the wheel off. I had to spend about 45 mins and make a custom wheel puller out of angle iron in my shop to get it off.

Then, the transfer case motor. So I watched the video on that many times, looked fairly easy, but might not have been a Dakota. So I spent nearly 2 hours trying to get ONE of the front driveshaft flange bolts out. Never got it out. Loosened, but then bound up. Impact gun couldn't do it (real trick using just the right length extensions on the socket with the gun behind the exhaust pipe). Tried another got it out. Tried another then it froze up and I started rounding the head. LOTS of cussing. Then looking at it I wondered if I could even take the shaft out if I got the bolts free with the exhaust pipe in the way. Set up didn't look quite like in the video. So I decided to see if I could get the motor out with the driveshaft in place. 3 bolts out, fought with the connector for a bit, the out it came, piece of cake. Put the new one in in about 10 minutes. It all seems to work now.

Still have a rattle in the front right, drives me crazy. Not brake pads, still hear it when riding the breaks. Sway bar link seems tight. Open for suggestions, what to whack, what to try? Started after I had my shop replace the struts. Soft at first, then got louder. Will get back under there Thurs and see what I can find with the wheels on the ground and the suspension loaded.

 

This is the black silicone filled gap above the windshield.

 

Are you sure it's not the pads, and you have an anti-rattle clip installed properly on both "ears" of each pad as they sit inside the caliper bracket?

Is the dust/spash shield at the hub loose or damaged?

Are all wheel lug nuts still torqued properly to spec?

Can you feel the rattling through the steering wheel? If so, could the outer steering tie rod/inner tie rod (or both) be wearing out?