Replacing all front suspension & steering in my 06 RWD V8 4.7L Dakota: Steering Shaft, Rack & Pinion, both Control Arms, Strut Assemblies, All Ball Joints & Bushings, Stab Links, Tie Rod Ends, EVERYTHING! Problem is, now that I'm installing all the new parts, the bottom pinch bolt on the new steering shaft is about 90 degrees off from the notch on the steering shaft spindle on the new R&P. (Not allowing me to insert or attach photos for some reason...?)

Used the seatbelt to keep steering wheel from moving off center before I removed the old steering shaft, installed new shaft with top pinch bolt in same position. R&P manufacturer said they are shipped set to center, but for some reason the lower pinch bolt on the steering shaft does not line up with the groove for it on the R&P spindle.

Considering removing top pinch bolt on steering shaft, installing lower pinch bolt onto R&P spindle first instead, finish tightening up the R&P, then just turn the steering wheel until the top pinch bolt notch lines up, but worried I might have to drive down the road with my steering wheel turned in order to go straight. Thought I'd pick your brains first tho to avoid possibly making things worse.

Also, I measured where the jam nuts were on the inner tie rod threads on the old R&P (from fixed points on the solid, cast portion) & I matched the jam nuts to the same positions on the new R&P ... On the passenger side, I had to go in toward center so far, there are only a few threads left showing, but on the driver's side, almost all the threads are showing (not much outside the jam nut left to where I was worried there wouldn't be enough for the tie rod end to grab onto, but was fine with about 6 turns).

Should I just ignore my measurements off the old R&P & eye ball the jam nut/tie rod end placement as they fit best once I get the control arms, stab links & knuckles back on?

Any help posting photos would be appreciated too

 

since everything is new, and I am gonna assume by its age that an alignment has been done previously. I would say no all your old positons are no good, but good enough to use to get you to a shop that does frt end alingments and pass that info on to them. As far as your steering shaft. I have never screwed with mine yet, but know that they are a week point on the dakota.

 

Thanks for the input regg187 - boyfriend said the same since Ill be getting an alignment anyhow (shop is only 4 blocks away too). Still hope someone knows about the odd steering shaft position & is willing to chime in - I wish I could post the pics I have too. If I don't hear anything by the time I get everything else put together, Ill just adjust the steering wheel to the new, centered R&P & maybe they'll figure it out at the shop when I get the alignment.

 

Update on the steering shaft issue: CHEAP! I get most of my parts from Rock Auto - If I don't have to buy Mopar, I don't go for the cheapest part, but choose a familiar manufacturer near the middle of the price range. They only offered one choice for my truck for the steering shaft however & it was "Ultra-Power" - only $80 compared to $200+ from the local parts stores but now I understand why. Still can't post pictures (help?) but while trying to install it, I realized the flaws AND solved the 90-degree-off mystery.

First off, the pinch-bolt collars would not slide over the spindles - pulled them a bit more open & saw that when they cut the bolt threads, they did not smooth the open edges of the collar inside - burrs & threading still attached, sharp edges - all catching on the spindle. Filed those down, got the steering wheel (top) end on. Even after filing inside the lower pinch collar, it still would not slide completely onto the R&P spindle. Took the whole thing out to compare to the old shaft - There is a small shoulder bored inside the pinch collar to allow it to slide that last 1/8" or so onto the spindle - the top collar was fine, which is why I was able to get it on, but the bored-shoulder was completely missing inside the lower collar, which is why it would not slide completely onto the R&P. Like I said, cheap. Luckily, the boyfriend's machine shop has a machinist that is willing to finish what the manufacturer should have for me (don't have time to return it for another possibly-defective replacement).

Then I was comparing the old & new shafts more closely, and realized the entire top section of u-joints above the rubber gasket where they attach to the shaft, had been assembled with the 4 little bolts, you guessed it, 90-degrees off - the rubber gasket looked like a freaking zig-zag - someone at Ultra-Power needs to be drug tested and/or fired. I even zoomed in on the manufacturer's photos to confirm. Glad I figured it out - I was able to take those four bolts out & rotate the top end 90-degrees & everything looks & fits correctly now.

Just waiting on the bore job to get done - bottom line, be wary of cheap, Ultra-Power parts.

 

If I remember right places offer 2 types of alignments. one is a static alignment and one is a name I forgot. The difference between the 2 are 1 centers your steering wheel and one does not

 

UPDATE Job is done!

Since everything from the steering shaft, to the rack, both control arms, struts, all the way out to the tie rod ends was all new, I did end up just completely ignoring the measurements I took off my old R&P jam nuts. I've had the battery disconnected, tires still off, tie rod ends not installed yet - with the key in the ignition in the on position, front end jacked up, I was able to turn the steering wheel completely left to completely right, stop to stop, which happened to be a tad over 3 full turns - lo & behold, when I came back halfway from a stop, 1.5 turns, that meant the rack was centered, the steering wheel was perfectly straight, and the inner tie rods looked extended about the same amount when I checked underneath. Things looked good.

I put the tires on and swiveled them back & forth until they looked as straight as possible to the naked eye - at this point, most people jack the lower control arm up a bit to compensate for gravity, to be able to install the outer tie rod end up into & though the mounting hole in the knuckle. I did this, but after a few pumps on the bottle jack, the whole truck stared lifting. Took a little break, did some research, watched a few videos & figured it out. With the outer tie rods completely off, wheels again as straight as possible, I lowered the front end of the truck for the first time in 2 weeks. Gave it a few good bumper bounces as the new suspension was feeling the full weight of the truck for the first time - turns out I torqued the lower control arms bolts down very well, but set them at too low of an angle. This helped wiggle/turn all the new bushing/bolt areas into the correct position & ride height using the truck's own weight. Before jacking it back up, I got underneath, loosely installed the outer tie rod ends in the KNUCKLE, adjusted the threaded inner tie rod spindle & outer tie rod end until they were parallel right next to each other, at the same exact angle - moved the jam nut out to barely touch where the end of the outer tie rod end would be once installed, even marked the threads with a tiny touch of paint in case the nut moved. Then jacked one side up at a time, tire off (again), took the outer tie rod end back off the knuckle, spun it onto the inner tie rod up to the jam nut, installed the outer tie rod end back into the knuckle hand tight (still had to jack up the LCA a little, but then tie rod end went right in), tightened the jam nut & torgued down the outer tie rod end, tire back on (again lol).

Boyfriend was impressed the tires look so close to being aligned, but still going to take it in for a proper alignment, hopefully tomorrow. I also replaced the high pressure power steering line & cooler return line (the 2 that connect to the R&P), so I had to fill & purge the fluid. Jacked the front up to take the weight off the tires, still left the battery disconnected, just put key in on position - filled reservoir, turned wheel stop to stop 30 times, pausing a few seconds at each stop, nothing at all on dipstick, refilled reservoir & did another 20 stop-to-stops with the steering wheel, reservoir empty again. Refilled reservoir one more time & after about 10 more full turns on the steering wheel, the dipstick showed almost perfectly full - did another 10 for good measure, dipstick still right at full. Lowered truck back down, hooked battery back up & started it with cap still off reservoir - did several stop-to-stops with the steering wheel with engine running. Shut off & fluid level was still right at full mark so I think I'm good.

Got dark so I'll test drive just around the block tomorrow & recheck fluid before getting the alignment. Long winded story, but I pulled so much of the information & tips I ended up using from so many different videos & places, I thought someone in a similar situation might appreciate the play-by-play all in one post. I truly appreciate this forum as a valuable resource so I wanted to return the favor